Showing posts with label *EUROPE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label *EUROPE. Show all posts

Monday, June 8, 2026

Sunny skiing in Breuil-Cervinia


Breuil-Cervinia
For the last few years, I have wanted to try skiing in different countries, rather than the usual Switzerland, Austria and France that we have been going skiing to. So this time we went to Breuil-Cervinia, in Italy. Though it's still the Alps, at least the food was better than the ski resorts in other European countries 😂. Plus the skiing was enjoyable - sunny weather, fabulous slopes, and the ability to cross-over and ski in the glaciers of Zermatt.


Getting there

We took a flight from London to Geneva, which flew over the Alps. It all looked so calm, so serene down below, with the white peaks peeking through the clouds. We also had to register at check-in kiosks before immigration, which was a new addition. Thankfully the queues weren't as chaotic as they became by springtime.

We had to drive about 3 hours to reach Breuil-Cervinia. We had rented a car from the airport, and picking it up was an interesting experience. First, the car was parked in a car park, 200m from the rental shop - it’s the first time I have seen something like this. Second, the car was extremely dirty, especially the wind screen and windows, which were completely covered with flowers and leaves stuck to them. When we pointed it out to the rental staff that the car should be cleaned before handover, they had a very shocked look! Thankfully they did clean it a bit for us.

And then we were off to the Alps. We first drove on flat plains, with snow covered mountains right next to us (well they were far away but looked near!). The plains were mostly farmlands with some industries in between. The far off peaks accompanying us the whole way looked stunning. The driving was bad though. It felt like no one drives properly in Italy! People speed, change lanes without signalling and quite often break the rules. I have had this experience in Italy a few times before but it still shocks me that such driving exists in Europe!

Ivrea
After some time, we took an exit and started driving through the alpine valleys. We first stopped at Ivrea for lunch. It was a small town and quiet empty at that time. We walked to a few restaurants and all of them refused to let us eat so late as it was already 2 pm 😂! So we had a snack at the station food shop (so much for good Italian food on this trip 😂).

We walked a bit in town. It had a few castles, one within the town and one slightly outside of town. The streets were all cobbled and looked lovely, with the red-orange houses around, and the snow covered Alps in the background. It was quite a scenic though short (and hungry) halt.

Thereafter, we mostly drove through Aosta valley through a scenic route which passes through the local villages and is dotted with castles. The scenic route runs alongside the highway but is a smaller and slower road. We drove through small villages, all charming and rustic, surrounded by mountains on both sides.

The houses were wooden and different from the Austrian/Swiss alpine chalets. The vegetation was mostly brown. The mountainsides were lined with vineyards. And there was no snow in this valley. We also drove past loads of castles on the mountainsides along us, including the famous Bard castle. They looked so majestic, and so cute - perched in brown on the hilltops. I enjoyed this slow drive, through charming villages, with the sun setting behind the mountains.

The gradient on the drive till now was gradual. Then suddenly after the town of Chatillon, we turned and went up quickly to 2000 m. We crossed a pass and suddenly there was a lot of snow everywhere. The last bit of the route was quite winding but not too tough to drive on. And then we reached our village, Breuil-Cervinia. We should have seen the Matterhorn (known as Monte Cervino in this area) as we arrived at our village but we couldn’t, as it was quite cloudy that day.

Snowed out view
We were staying in an airbnb in one of the apartment buildings in town. It was tough to find as the location shared was wrong! But it was very well done up, close to the ski lifts and we had a gorgeous view of the mountains around us. It started snowing right after we reached, so everything around looked heavenly. The temperatures were freezing though.

High street
On our first evening, we walked into town for dinner. It looked so cosy and active, with loads of people around. There was a small little high street, all lit up at night, with loads of eating places around. There was music playing in the evening. It felt like being in winter wonderland as it was snowing lightly all evening!

We first walked to our ski rental shop to rent skis and the staff there were so unfriendly. The owner was just not willing to store our skis and even started shouting at us when we asked him questions! They were also upset that we came late in the evening, even though the shop was still open. It wasn’t a great experience, and till now, I wasn't impressed by the service and hospitality of northern Italy.

After renting the skis, we walked into 5-6 restaurants and they were all fully booked! Finally we found a place, the Sporting Bar, which was willing to accommodate us 😂. Dinner there was simple but at least we got to eat!


Skiing in Breuil-Cervinia

Overall, I loved the skiing in Breuil-Cervinia. It was snowing the first day, but the next three days were gorgeous and sunny. The slopes were wide, the snow was fresh and the Alp views magnificent. On two of the days, I even skied the other side of Monte Cervino, in Zermatt valley in Switzerland, where the skiing was even more amazing.

Breuil-Cervinia
On the first day it was snowing and the slopes were covered in clouds the whole time. It wasn't too crazy weather but we still couldn't see where we were skiing. So we mostly did blues all day as we could not risk skiing blind on unknown slopes! I didn't enjoy it much that day as I couldn't see much around. So I skied only 4 hours, one of the fewest hours I have skied in a single day.

We had lunch at La Grotto, a fancy Italian restaurant in town. And the pizza there was so tasty. Finally we got a taste of the great Italian food we had dreamt of! Also I always say, I like Italian food only in Italy (otherwise I don't like pasta and pizza much) and this trip proved it. The pizza here was so thin and tasty, I loved it!

The last day too, I skied on the Italian side. I took a few connecting gondolas and went all the way till the village of Valtournenche. The gondolas on this part of the resort went quite far, they took a long time to navigate. The runs here were amazing though. And so long! I had a nice day skiing here in the sun.

Love Apres
I went on a very long run, all the way down to the village. Valtournenche looked delightful from the top, it even had a lake visible from the mountain. There was less snow here though than Breuil-Cervinia. As we were leaving the same day, we started early and it took a while to ski back to town, after taking a mix of gondolas and lifts to get back. I had lunch on the slopes that day at Love Apres (a place I had skied past everyday but never stopped at). It was lovely to sit there and enjoy the last view and feel of the mountains before heading back to the plains.


Skiing in Zermatt

It is possible to ski from Breuil-Cervinia towards the Zermatt valley in Switzerland. There are a few gondolas which can take one over the high peaks to the other side. To do that, one needs to buy international ski lift tickets for the day. A lot dependd on the weather and of course winds though, as quite often these gondolas are shut down due to bad weather.

On days 2 and 3, the weather was brilliant and we could have a full day of skiing. So I ventured to the other side. I had to take a few lifts and gondolas to cross the border. I also took the Matterhorn Glacier ride which takes you all the way up to the mountain peak of Klein Matterhorn, at a height of 3800 m. In fact when you get off, you have to walk through a tunnel inside the peak to reach the ski slopes.

Matterhorn
It was fun to go there, and I spent the whole day skiing around the Zermatt ski resort. From the peak, you can ski on the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise on the top, which is open for skiing all year around. Around it are 5-6 other glaciers which one can see from one of the lifts at Hohtalli. Skiing on the glacier was like a dream. Cruising on wide slopes, with stunning views around. I mostly did reds all day today and they were stunning. The only time I fell was on a flat slope while I was admiring the Matterhorn 😂. One can see the Matterhorn while skiing down, and it was stunning. It looked like a sphinx to me. And over the next two days I kept admiring it from various different angles.

I skied down to Furgg and Schwarzee lifts. The marking on the slopes was a bit off here. So as I was skiing, I got on a very flat blue slope (51) which went all the way down to Furi. It was not fun at all, as I had to push on the poles the whole way down.

When I reached Furi, it felt nice to be back there as I had visited the place in summer 2021, when I had hiked this area. It looked so different now with a completely opposite vibe. I was looking for the same restaurant that I had eaten at then, but I couldn't find it. So I had lunch at the Gitz Gadi restaurant near Silvana hotel, in the sun. It was lovely. It felt so nice to be there.

As it was my first day on the Swiss side and I was a bit anxious to get back to Italy, I left early on and took a few lifts to get back to the Italian side. I had to take the Trockener Steg gondola to the Klein Matterhorn peal but this gondola approached from the other side. I could see a lot more of the glaciers around (I had done a hike in the same area during the summer of 2021 when the glaciers had receded a lot more).

The gondola went through a few ups and downs and we could see the peak of the mountain far off. And boy, was it scary. So scary, that I decided not to look outside of the gondola even! The weather was brilliant that day, but now I understand why most of the time this gondola does not work. It would be quite scary on a bad weather day. After I got to the top, skiing down on the Italian side was quick as most lifts closed by 4 pm (even though sunset was after 6 pm!). So I just cruised down on the blues, all the way down.

The second day I went to Switzerland, I started earlier and skied much further, across many mountains to get to Schweigmatt. I went all the way through Furgg, Riffelberg, Gant and Hohtalli till Schweigmatt. The whole ski route was lovely. The valleys were wider with more panoramic views. They even had a ski train on the Gornergrat mountain, which looked cute. We got a magnificent view of the glaciers and peaks around from Hohtalli. Skiing here was just fabulous, with some easy but many challenging slopes. The weather was colder here though as the sun set here earlier.

While skiing back to Breuil-Cervinia, I stopped for lunch at Alphitta Zermatt, and it was heaven. We ate with a direct front view of the Matterhorn. And there was live music playing there. I think this was the highlight of my ski trip. I also chatted with some Germans who had taken a train all the way up till the restaurant and were also going to walk back down. They were on a holiday taking mostly trains to get anywhere (including the famour Glacier Express and Bernina Express), it sounded like an interesting travel idea. After lunch, I started the long trek back to Breuil-Cervinia via the Matterhorn Glacier.

The slopes on the Swiss side were generally longer and wider. The slopes felt easier too, maybe because they are wider. Surprisingly the snow felt less than in Breuil-Cervinia (other than on the glaciers of course). Also there were regular patches where one had to go speeding down to be able to naturally ski up the mountain. It was good practice for me, especially to get comfortable with skiing at high speeds. But still surprising.

Also, there were far more gondolas than ski lifts on the Swiss side. Which led to a lot of time wasted queuing for them. But as the slopes were longer, we didn't need to use them often. This side of the mountain was also more stunning than the Italian side. The Zermatt valley is definitely one of the loveliest in the Alps. And I think it's because I was admiring all the scenery around, I ended up skiing a lot, almost 8 hours from 9 to 5 pm. And I totally enjoyed it.


Breuil-Cervinia town

Monte Cervino
One of the evenings, I just walked around town for almost an hour and a half, all the way up one of the mountains. And I loved the town. Monte Cervino is the name given to the Matterhorn on the Italian side, and is quite a key attractor of people here in town. The town is quite huge, and spread out along a few of the mountainsides around. There were many other activities going on around here other than skiing, like snow tours, snow walks, glacier walks and so on. Overall, it seemed quite calm and convenient town. 

There are apartments in the centre of town, and also along four of the mountainsides. I walked up one of those mountains (where our airbnb was), and there were apartments and hotels there, right next to red slopes coming down! It would have been nice to stay at such a “ski in ski out” place. The sun also came out during this walk and the skiing on the other side of the mountain still in the sun, looked amazing.

High street
When we went into town in the evenings, we could see many apres ski and other restaurants alive and kicking. One evening, I sat outside Casa Montana next to a fire and sketched the hotel in front, the Da Compagnoni. The high street felt so lively with all the people around, the snow falling and the music playing there. It was so atmospheric, I loved it.

The second evening, we had dinner at La Barbaroque, where I ordered an Aosta soup and it was so bad. There was no soup in it, no liquid 😂. But the service was really good, our waiter was from Argentina. So she changed the order for me. The next evening we had dinner at Casa Montana apparently the oldest in Breuil-Cervinia. The vibe was so fun there though the food was quite average.


Leaving Breuil-Cervinia

On our last day, we had an interesting experience at the ski shop (again!). When we went to return our skis, we realised they were closed from 12-2 pm! That was a shock. It is Italy, but still we hadn’t expected this. Thankfully the owner picked up our phone and came back to take the skis, so that worked out OK. But if she hadn't, we could have even missed our flight.

The drive back to Milan airport was quicker, as we drove through the highways. Even that was as beautiful as the scenie road we had taken earlier. There were snow covered mountains and gray clouds all the way. Apparently, there was a storm approaching and the next few days, skiing was going to be limited in Breuil-Cervinia. At least in that respect, we had good timing.

At the car rental, after we dropped our car, the receptionist offered to drop us at the airport in the same car. And he drove so crazily, that now we knew why traffic was so bad all around! We had our dinner at the Milan airport. There were just so many nice restaurants - Italians do love their food! And by then, we started felling our trip was now over. 


Overall, I loved the experience of skiing in Italy. The views were great, the sun was welcome and the food yum. I would definitely recommend this ski resort anytime.

Friday, March 20, 2026

Learning the Dutch way of life (2)


Other Amsterdam blogs
Dutch way of life: Part 1

Work to live

I can talk about this for hours. Work life for the Dutch is like a different world altogether. Of course, my view is based on what I have seen and may be somewhat limited. But I was still amazed by it.

Summer evenings
I used to joke, ‘for the Dutch there is life and all the hobbies they want to pursue; in between when they have time, they work’ 😂. Or at least it felt like that. On the whole, most people 
prioritise their personal lives a lot more than in other cultures I have seen. Most people don't work long hours, are ok with taking a pay cut or slower career growth to have a better life, take long holidays and somehow did not seem to take their work as seriously as I was used to before. In fact, many times I felt that a lot of people finished their hours in office, and just left work at the workplace, not really going the extra mile (and hours) to make it better.

Taking breaks for personal tasks - going to see the doctor, getting a vaccine, shopping for household goods, getting haircuts, doing christmas shopping, meeting friends for lunch, doing child duties and so on - during the workday was quite normal. And somehow no one seemed to make up for that by working extra hours later. It was just acceptable to take time for personal things whenever needed. Of course, there were exceptions, but this way of working seemed to be the norm. (I noticed a lot more about the work culture in the Netherlands but would prefer not to list it all. Suffice to say, it was shocking for me to see this way of working).

Fall in the canals
For the rest, I loved that they did not believe much in hierarchy. In fact, I stopped saying the word ‘boss’ in the Netherlands, and started using the word ‘manager’ instead. People took a lot of holidays and were not embarrassed about it. Sabbaticals were very common. Part time work was very common. I loved experiencing all these ways to make work more flexible.

The rules around work life in the Netherlands also supported this way of working. A huge majority of the population works part time, with four days a week being much more common and acceptable than in the UK. Mental health is prioritised and mental health leave is quite common, where, in cases of work stress or burnout, an employee can get up to two years off, to recover from work related stress. The unemployment benefits are also quite generous here (I heard the government pays up to 70% of the last drawn salary in case of job loss, but haven’t confirmed it).

Lights at night
I also noticed something surprising. The Dutch keep their work and private life very separate. Going out for drinks and dinner with their colleagues is not as common as the Thursday evening work drinks in London. Overall, it was quite a journey for me to get used to the way of working in the Netherlands. But it was definitely a nice experience to be able to prioritise my personal life enough too.


Keeping things in line

The Dutch like rules and order. Most people make all their plans including social plans three months in advance (and I am not exaggerating!). In fact, all these plans are added to their calendars, and it’s close to impossible to find a free slot to meet someone closer to the day - they just flatly refuse, that I have no time! Eventually, I had to do the same and my calendar would also get booked in advance. Which is inevitable as if you don’t do that, you won't be able to be a part of the local calendar. Also, tickets for events and even restaurants get all booked out early. So planning in advance is the only option.

Amstel Park
The downside of course was when my Indian friends would visit Amsterdam and let me know only a few days in advance, it was tough even for me to find time to meet them 😂. This was also very different from Indian culture where even on the day, people are not ready to commit to meet 😂. London is a happy medium, we make plans one or two weeks in advance which feels a lot easier to manage.

Overall, there were benefits to having an organised life. People would always turn up, and on time - it was helpful. Some parts of it were funny too. If someone sent a dinner invitation from say 5-8 pm, at 8 pm, people would just get up and start leaving (I saw this happen so many times at office events and drinks!). It was really funny to notice this the first few times.

Sunny evenings
There were downsides to all this organised life too. I felt it was tough for the Dutch to accept last minute changes to plans. Of course it happened, but I always sensed a kind of discomfort when that was discussed. Breaking rules or changing plans once decided was tough for most. I have also heard stories about guests being asked to leave as it was time for their hosts’ dinner 😂. Imagine my shock when compared to India, where being invited at 5 pm means people can turn up at 8 pm and stay for as long as they wanted 😂. It was tough for me to straddle these different worlds.


Being direct

The Dutch are known to be very direct in their communication style, and that is quite true. They don't hold back what they think. And this is taught to them since childhood; to ask questions, be curious, and share their opinions. I however thought that what is called directness sometimes borders on rudeness, as there is a fine line between the two. Having lived in London for so long, I do value politeness and I found the Dutch way of communication could be a bit more considerate of other people than it currently is.

Summer views
Still it is quite commendable to see the level of honesty in the people, and the country. The Dutch are more open and accepting of their colonial history, the VOC (Dutch East India Company) and its role in the historical slave trade, than other European countries I have visited. I noticed this on my visits to the museums in Amsterdam.

In the exhibits, there were many paintings showcasing the colonial history of the country, with paintings portraying the lives of the people in the colonies more positively than it actually was. All such exhibits had explanatory notes posted next to them, accepting and highlighting the colonial past of the country, including some of the wrongs done by them. I respected them more for not whitewashing their entire history - it is commendable for a country to accept the realities of its past, accept the mistakes and move on.

Museumplein
The Dutch also question historical traditions quite often, discuss them openly and look for solutions. Another example of this is the traditional character of Black Piet which used to accompany Sinterklaas, the original Dutch Santa Claus. There have been discussions on him for years, how it made fun of the African people and their culture. And so they are increasingly being replaced by Sooty Piet.

I am not sure if it is linked to the directness or the practicality of the Dutch, but they are not known for expressing their emotions much. (I am not making it up, it has been confirmed by the insta content creators again 😂). They don't generally express a lot of joy and excitement about things, their reactions almost feel dry and flat. Initially, I had a tough time figuring out whether my team was happy or excited about events or not. Their reactions felt so emotionless sometimes, almost like the Nordics. Thankfully when I saw other insta creators face the same challenges, I realised it wasn’t just me who felt this way! And I just learnt to deal with it. They do love cosiness though, known as 'gezellig'. It's a term mentioned so many times, it becomes a part of the local experience.


Driven by language

Summer time
I think I can go on for hours about the Dutch language. It is a tough language to learn, apparently with more exceptions to the rule than rules being followed 😂. Though it is the pronunciation that is just so hard to get right. It takes a long time to even hear the difference say, between the ‘oo’, ‘ou’, ‘uu’ and other similar combinations - speaking is a different matter altogether.

And interestingly, for the Dutch, if you say what you think is the right way to say something, but it isn’t, they just won't get it. The minor differences sound so much more different to them than to the untrained ear. Try asking someone for directions to the Van Gogh museum or telling someone that you visited Scheveningen or the Keukenhof Gardens. If you don’t get the pronunciation right, they will just not understand it, at all! Even if both ways of saying may sound the same to you 😂.

Beauty in the fall
Other than the pronunciation, there were also some words or phrases used in the Netherlands which surprised me a bit and took some time to get used to. For example, I always had to double check if the next week meant the current ongoing week or the next one 😂. Quite often my colleagues would use the terms 'week 18' or 'week 35' in discussions, a way of referring to weeks in the year that I had never come across before moving to the Netherlands. Also, when someone said 'the afternoon', they meant the time between 2 pm and 6 pm, very strictly! I was used to using the word 'evening' for any time after 4 pm, but that wasn’t allowed in the Netherlands 😂.

The translation of Dutch to English sometimes led to specific phrases being used differently than the English I was used to. Terms like ‘father of my wife’, instead of ‘my wife’s father’; ‘make a photo’ instead of take a photo’; ’ do sports, instead of ‘play sports’; pronouncing ‘ideas’ as ‘id’ - all this took time to get used to.

Nights in the fall
Also, the way the language is structured has also led to differences in behaviour. Apparently in Dutch, there are two words for family - familie and gezin - the close nuclear family and the extended family. I think that shows in how they are with their families too, the close family is different from the extended family. Interestingly, they also have different words for different kinds of shopping, the fun kind of shopping, winkelen and the everyday boring one, boodschappen doen. It was interesting to know shopping could also be of different types.


Quirky habits and traditions

There were many other interesting quirks about the Dutch which I noticed over the course of the four years in the Netherlands. I am listing a few here.

Summer time
Interestingly, whenever at work we would introduce ourselves, my Dutch colleagues mostly stated their age right after their names. I found that unusual. And when I asked a colleague about it, she said, yes that’s expected and normal. Either way, I never gave in to this trend. Also discussing haircuts and hairdressers frequently at work was something I found unusual. The Dutch favourite pastime is supposed to be complaining. To be honest, there was a bit of it but I didn't notice it as being too much. Anyways the complaining felt quite jovial most of the time. Also the Dutch congratulate not just the person whose birthday it is, but the whole family too! And personalised gifts on birthdays are quite important. They all felt like very unique traditions.

Cute rides
I found driving in Central Amsterdam a nightmare - the narrow criss-crossing roads, the aggressive cyclists, and the risk of the car falling into the canal 😂. The canal was always like a risk in my mind, seeing the cars parked just inches away from them was so scary. I did park like that a few times but my heart would be pounding at such moments. It was tough! Thankfully I had the option of cycling in the city, and avoided driving there, it helped immensely. In Amsterdam, you will also notice this small little electric car zipping on the roads. Its so cute, and very popular. It seats two, is electricity run, can be parked easily anywhere, protects from the rain and is allowed to drive in the cycle lane. I think it’s like the covered cycle for the Dutch and everyone who visited the city loved seeing it.

The Dutch have one of the best road infrastructure in the world, with many multi lane highways (often with 6-10 lanes), straight and flat roads, and it would be so easy to drive fast safely there. But they also have one of the lowest speed limits in Europe, 100 kmph on the highways during the day! This is partly due to environmental and nitrogen emission concerns, but it is also the butt of many jokes in Europe.

Sunny winter days
Dutch politics was quite interesting too. One, they have some 20-30 national parties as apparently anyone who has a differing point of view can form their own party. As a result, coalition governments are the norm, and forming them can take time given all the divergent views in the country. So quite often, even after elections, it takes a year or two for the next coalition to form, and the caretaker government keeps governing during this period. In the last ten years, caretaker governments have been governing for 3-3.5 of those ten years! Wow! Also, the previous prime minister of the country, Mark Rutte often cycled to work! There are photographs of him across the internet on a simple bike, with no bodyguards. (Coming from India, this is something very difficult to imagine!)

Even though the Dutch are very egalitarian in their outlook, somehow they are comfortable having a royal family. This is quite a paradox and I couldn’t understand it. The Dutch also love their museums. There are some 80-100 museums in Amsterdam alone! And over 400 in the whole country.

Winter nights
Dutch houses are quite unique. With their very narrow staircases, leaning structures, huge windows and so on. Because of the narrow staircases, heavy and huge stuff cannot be taken up through them - that is shifted into a building through the windows! There are metal hooks fixed to all the old buildings which are used for transporting heavy furniture through the windows, using ropes. Some of this has been replaced with machines which can move the furniture from the ground up till the windows. Both these ways are always fascinating to watch. The Dutch also have a love for window cleaning - they are cleaned every month without fail, something very different from the British.

Art in the parks
There is a huge abundance of flower shops and stands in Amsterdam - everywhere. I had six flower shops within a 5 mins walking distance from my place. It may be because of the country being the flower trading hub of the world, either way I loved that. I started buying a lot more flowers for home than I did before. Also, there are many farmer markets across the city and it was a nice experience to buy fresh produce easily.

The Dutch love their beer. In fact, for periods in its history, beer in Amsterdam was cheaper than water and was drunk instead of it as it could be sanitised more easily, while the water, especially from the canals, was infected. Still I think the Dutch drink a lot less than their British neighbours.

They have some unusual traditional sporting events, which don’t exist anywhere else. There is one about sitting on a pole in a canal for as long as possible, known as the paalzitten. And then there is one called the haringhangen, where people cling on to slippery herring fish in the canal, and the one to last the longest is the winner.

The Dutch celebrate Sinterklaas, which is a Dutch festival and was the inspiration for Santa Claus. Now they celebrate both Christmas and Sinterklaas. Sinterklaas comes first, from Spain, on a boat, with his helpers and Piets along with him. And it is only when he leaves by mid-December, that Christmas trees are supposed to be put up in houses and shops. Interestingly, this way, Dutch children get two rounds of gifts in the festive season, from Sinterklaas and then Santa Claus.

Painting at the Rijks
Art is very important for the Dutch. No wonder such a small country had so many greats - Van Gogh, Vermeer, Van Dyck, Rembrandt etc.. Everyone regularly goes to museums and concerts, even children from an early age, to instil this appreciation for art. Also art has influenced a lot of ideas about freedom and expression in the country. And is a part of everyone’s daily life, a lot more than many other places I have visited.


Historical and cultural context

I read a few books about the Netherlands and what led to the country to become what it did. I found some interesting insights which may have shaped the Netherlands of today. Sharing some of these, for interest (or just for fun 😀).

Historically the Netherlands never had a feudal system, as most farmers owned their own land. But they all had to manage water together so they could farm effectively. Because of all that, the society became highly individualistic with relatively less hierarchy in their culture. But the collective also became important as the farmers needed to work together to make the water management work. There is a term for that too, the polder way of working.

Summer evenings
Amsterdam was a very religious city with a strong Protestant influence historically. But it was even then open to other ideas. Even though they were Protestant and religious themselves, they allowed other religions to exist peacefully. This policy of tolerance has always existed in Amsterdam. If it's going to happen, let it happen; and so they chose to regulate many things rather than prohibit them altogether, like prostitution, weed, euthanasia, LGBTQ and so on. Amsterdam in also credited with instilling a lot of its values - diversity, trading mentality, freedom of religion etc.- to New York, as Amsterdam was the inspiration for the city of New York (originally called New Amsterdam).

In the Netherlands, a lot of the other cities don’t really like Amsterdam. There is a perception that people there are too transactional. Amsterdam had initially sided with the Spanish in the Eighty Years War (one of the Dutch Civil Wars), so the rest of the Netherlands still hold it against them. Someone I know in the Netherlands actually called Amsterdam a ‘dump’, asking me why anyone would want to live there 😂. I didn't have the heart to tell him, it's the prettiest place I have ever lived in!

Frozen canals
Given how small the Netherlands is (roughly 300 km by 200 km), it's interesting to see how people across the country see each other as different. The south of the Netherlands is treated as a different culture altogether, a place barely 100 kms away 😂. I met many colleagues who had moved from the south to the north and shared how they had to adjust to a different culture. Having moved from India to the Netherlands, across thousands of kms, I couldn't help but laugh at those comments.

There is also a Bible Belt in the Netherlands, in the central part. And the southern Catholic region is lot more religious too. (The north is quite atheist). The south is famous for hosting the famous and crazy Carnival every year in February. The people from the north love to joke about it. The Dutch also have a healthy rivalry with the Belgians, and love making fun of them. Well they are in the south, so that makes sense 😂.

The taxes in the Netherlands are extremely high with top rates of 49-52%. Still I did not see a single Dutch person complain about it, ever! The Dutch get so much back for their taxes - childcare support, unemployment benefits, subsidised college education, a generous pension, great roads and infrastructure and more - most don’t mind it much. Life is just so much easier and more convenient here, that it feels that the taxes are worth it.


Summer evenings
With all its quirks, Amsterdam and the Netherlands are a unique experience, a must-do at least once in a lifetime. The Netherlands turns up in all the lists of happiest places to live in, and I would agree with it. I loved it, and am so grateful I got a chance to live in such an amazing place.


Other Amsterdam blogs


Learning the Dutch way of life (1)


Other Amsterdam blogs

I lived in Amsterdam for about four years and during this time experienced Dutch culture quite closely as I worked in a completely Dutch company, plus the Netherlands is not as diverse as London. So you do end up being in contact with Dutch culture more than in London. I must say that before moving to the Netherlands, I had assumed that the culture there would be similar to the UK where I had lived for decades. So I had expected the move to be seamless. But was I in for a shock! Dutch culture is so unique, so quaint, it took me a lot of time (and effort!) to understand the quirks and differences, to get comfortable with this new experience.

Fall evenings
In fact, I had to read a few books about Amsterdam, about the Netherlands and the Dutch to understand the history and the context for why things are the way they are. It’s only after all the research and reading, a lot of things started to make sense. A lot of these cultural traits are just so different (and sometimes frustrating also) to adjust to. It helps to be aware of these differences, as then it gets a lot easier to deal with them.

Also, following instagram accounts of other expats in the Netherlands helped a lot. Watching their reels I would go, ‘yes yes, I also noticed that’! In fact, it helped confirm to me that I wasn’t being delusional, the Dutch really are like that 😂. And other expats also find it different (and sometimes difficult to get used to!). My favourite insta content creators for expats in the Netherlands were driplist and double dutch.

The following are some of the values I learnt about Dutch culture
  • Dutch love for freedom and individualism
  • Practicality comes before everything
  • Simplicity as a way of life
  • Love of the outdoors, weather be damned
  • Being direct
  • Keeping things in line
  • Work to live
  • Driven by language
  • Other quirky habits and traditions

Spring is coming
(Quick disclaimers before we begin: One, I absolutely loved living in Amsterdam, one of the best places I have ever lived in. It’s just that I noticed a lot of the cultural differences, and some of them were tough to adjust to initially. So they are not a criticism of the country and culture, just a narration of some of my experiences of settling in. Two, my views are based only on my own experiences and others may have a different perception or experience of Dutch culture than mine. And that’s ok. Lastly, I use Amsterdam and the Netherlands interchangeably. Non-Amsterdammers will kill me for that but that’s how it was for me. Amsterdam was the Netherlands 😂).


When I moved to the Netherlands in 2021, I had written an article, Moving to Amsterdam, first impressions. This article adds to those initial thoughts and shares my final impressions as I left the country. So both articles should be read together. Also, I am posting photos I took of Amsterdam, of its natural beauty, in all seasons, along with this article. Just like that 😄. Enjoy!!


Dutch love for freedom and individualism

The Dutch spirit is at a different level than many others. The early Dutch had a daunting task of creating a country from the marshes. And it was impressive that they imagined they could pump water out of the land using windmills, build dykes to close off and control the seas, and build new land to farm and live on. Just having that vision deserves a “hats off” to the Dutch. They have been imagining and conquering nature for so long, it has become second nature to them. And I think that may be what drives their love for independence, freedom and hence the gradual evolution into an individualistic society.

Sunny fall evenings
In fact, one of my colleagues had shared this with me after seeing me struggle with some behaviours around me. She said that Dutch society is a very individualistic one. People are helpful of course, but they generally put the self before others. And once she mentioned it to me, I was able to understand the actions better. When people said what they wanted, directly, without much consideration of others, made sense now. Not making too much of an effort in inviting and entertaining guests, made sense now. Not having spare bedrooms in their houses for hosting visitors, made sense now.

The focus on the self before others does show up in a lot of the actions and ways of life. And knowing that helps. In fact, two colleagues had also said straightaway in a discussion after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, that they would happily flee the country rather than stay back and fight, like what the Ukrainians were doing. Thankfully I wasn’t shocked when I heard that anymore 😂.

Art in the parks
This individualism also extends to not liking being told what to do. That can be seen everywhere in the Netherlands. So many people in the Netherlands protested against the Covid measures and the vaccine, just because the government was telling them to do something. Lockdowns were very difficult to implement in the Netherlands because no one wanted to be told what to do. And being a manager in the Netherlands was tough too, as no one in the team wants to be guided by their manager on their work - everyone wants to make their mistakes themselves and figure it out by themselves 😂. This was definitely something very tough to adjust to, having come from a hierarchical society like India, and the UK also to some extent. Another linked behaviour I experienced (and later read about too) was how some of the Dutch people are not able to say sorry as easily as say, the British. I noticed this a few times too, including when a mechanic messed up the settings on my car, and he just kept giving excuses rather than just apologising. This was also something I found very surprising.

This individualism also leads to an interesting dualism in the Netherlands. Though overall the Dutch follow order and rules, they are also fine breaking some rules, like queue jumping, speeding and so on. And they are not as much of a stickler for rules, as say, the Germans and the Swiss. So here and there, small rules are broken all the time. I never fully comprehended this duality somehow. (Though, for expats, all rules must be followed. Unless you speak Dutch, then you can get away with flexible rules sometimes).

Spring in the Rijksmuseum
I am not sure if it's the same reason of not liking to be told what to do, but the service in the country really sucks. It's almost like they don’t believe in good service. And the Dutch directness doesn't help here either 😂. Shops which are supposed to close at 5 pm, start discouraging customers to come in, from 430 pm onwards! They almost harass you to get out. No one in the shops even makes an effort to sell you something. In fact, if you ask questions about the products, quite often you will experience grumpiness and annoyance from the shop attendants. I found it quite shocking, isn’t selling you goods what they want to do?

The waiters in restaurants are also not the friendliest. Service with a smile rarely exists. And when it did happen, we would clap for it (metaphorically!)! I had a running joke for restaurant service in the Netherlands. If the waiter brought water to the table after being asked just once, the restaurant should get a 5 star for their service, being in the top 5% in the country! If after asking twice you get water on your table, the service is not bad, being in the top 30% of the restaurants. And for the rest of them, you never got the water 😂, which was true for the majority of the restaurants. We all got used to these levels of service, of course. But we would be star struck while travelling when waiters smiled at their customers 😂.

Winter nights
The focus on freedom and individualism is inculcated in the Dutch from childhood. Children are taught that they are all special, winning is not considered as important as participation. They are taught to be curious, question authority, and not submit to hierarchy. Having an opinion and voicing it is considered important - children are taught this from an early age. They are also taught to be independent from childhood itself, to feel free to choose whichever profession they like, and so on. So all of it is normal for everyone, it’s everywhere. And maybe because of that, Dutch children are often said to be one of the happiest in the world.


Practicality comes before everything

I think it is from the values of freedom and individualism, plus the trading history of the Dutch that practicality became another key pillar of the Dutch way of life. What works better is what will be done. And this preference for practicality drives a lot of what Dutch society is today. This policy even has a name, ‘Gedogen’, something may be illegal but it's better to just look the other way. This is the approach of the Dutch for weed, prostitution, and many other lifestyle choices in the country.

Fall nights on the canals
The Netherlands is one of the few countries in Europe that adopted English as a widely spoken second language and everyone is taught the language in school. So the whole country is fluent in speaking English, along with Dutch. And the reason is simple. The Dutch accept that the Dutch language is spoken in such a small geographic area, they will have to learn a more global language to be able to trade with the world, as well as make the Netherlands a place expats would want to live. And it is this practicality that makes them accept learning and speaking English a lot more openly, compared to, say, the French.

The same goes for Dutch food. Someone said to me, the Dutch eat to live. And as all the food eventually mixes when it reaches the stomach, it doesn’t make sense to spend too much time cooking different dishes 😂. And so the ritual of cooking and eating is not that important in their culture, as in the Spanish or Italian cultures. Practical choices at a different level! And I think it’s because of this, I rarely found the food in the city particularly ‘tasty’. This would hit me a lot more every time I travelled to places where food was revered and actually tasted outstanding.

Another colleague of mine once told me that eating is not a big activity in Dutch homes (unlike Indian and Asian families where food is thought about and discussed from morning to night). The Dutch food is mostly sandwiches, whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner (ok, I may be exaggerating, but not a lot 😂!).

Tastiest french fries
This was really tough for me to adjust to, as I have always eaten hot cooked food for my meals. And on this point, I held my ground. I may have had a sandwich for a meal less than 5 times in the entire four years of living in the Netherlands! I must say though, I liked some of the Dutch desserts - cakes, oliebollen and some raisin breads. And they did make tasty French fries. But overall, I wasn’t impressed with the cuisine.

Also it’s interesting to note that the Dutch started colonialism mainly for trading in spices, but decided not to add those spices to their own food. As one of my colleagues said, the Dutch have a trading mindset, and it was more profitable to sell rather than eat the spices! And that’s how practical they can be 😂.

Because of the trading mindset of the country, the Port of Rotterdam is apparently the busiest port in Europe, with the best and most convenient setup for trade. Because of efficient operations, lower taxes, easier paperwork and many other business friendly systems, even though ships have to travel more to get here, a very high percentage of European sea trade comes through this port in the Netherlands.

Twinkling nights
Dutch practicality when it comes to money and value is already well known. There is a reason the phrase of splitting bills is called ‘going Dutch’. The Dutch prefer the practicality of paying for what they eat, to avoid any type of over or underpayment. They also value spending money frugally and avoiding any kind of show-off through overspending. In fact, more often than not, you will find Dutch people discussing how to spend less rather than more.

This focus on value sometimes goes too far though, which in some cultures (such as my Indian culture), may be perceived almost as being cheap. One classic example I heard about often was about Dutch weddings. I heard stories of how some people who attended weddings, had to go out to buy and eat their own meals, and then come back for the dancing at the afterparty. Or other stories of guests getting vouchers for 1-2 free drinks after which they had to pay for additional drinks themselves. As practical as this system may be, anyone coming from India would be shocked to hear this. As in Indian culture, people go to the other extreme, of taking huge loans to have lavish weddings and pay for everything for the guests during the weddings.

Summer nights along the canals
Another example of the simple and practical life choices the Dutch make is about inviting and hosting guests at home. I heard (as well as experienced) that the Dutch don't invite people home easily, especially expats. They prefer to meet outside for coffee and meals, instead of inviting guests home for meals. It is clearly easier and more practical that way.

I am not sure if this is also driven by practicality and value consciousness, but it feels like the Dutch drive everywhere in Europe. For skiing, or long summer holidays, most of them drive to their destination instead of flying (it also helps that they always take long holidays, one to three weeks long). Whether it's Austria or Switzerland for a week, or Spain and France for longer holidays, they just drive so far regularly. Maybe it is because I have lived in the UK for so long, such long distance driving holidays felt too strenuous and excessive to me.

Art in the streets
And lastly, the Dutch are quite conservative when it comes to taking medicines. It's a joke but quite near the truth - doctors in the Netherlands are known to prescribe paracetamol for most ailments. Also home birthing is relatively common and quite encouraged in the Netherlands, which I haven’t seen elsewhere for a long time. The Netherlands is also one of the few countries in the world to have legalised euthanasia. Practicality and simplicity just shows up in every nook and corner of the country.


Simplicity as a way of life

This is something about Dutch culture that takes a while to realise, as it just slips into your own life too. And you realise this change only when you visit other places. The Dutch believe in a simple life, with minimum show off. Choices in daily life are made for their practical value, not how others perceive it. And this happens in all aspects of life.

Clothes, buildings, conversations. Everything is simple and not blown out of proportion. No one talks about money, how much their house costs, how much their car costs, how much property they own, and so on. If you compliment a Dutch person for something they own, they will immediately mention how it’s not expensive, and underplay it. They will even tell you where they bought it on sale 😂. And this simplicity cannot be appreciated enough. It makes living in the Netherlands a lot lighter than some other places. And brings about a humility which feels refreshing. Such a welcome change compared to the US and India.

Summer nights
The Dutch have this habit of living their lives with their curtains open! I read somewhere that this was done in the olden days to show that nothing improper was happening inside the house while the men of the house were away at sea. But this has continued till today. I initially did not believe it but it's true, the Dutch live their lives with windows without curtains drawn, especially in central Amsterdam. Sometimes it’s fun to peek inside the canal houses and view all the paintings, furnishings and chandeliers in those expensive places. Though many times, it's a bit uncomfortable. But it’s still in line with the idea of a simple life, where there is nothing to hide.

The love for simplicity and practicality also extends to clothes. The Dutch are not big on clothes and dressing up either. The clothes they wear are simple, casual and practical - mostly what works for cycling (of course I am exaggerating a bit but not much). Most people prefer to wear loose clothes, in shades of black, blue, grey and brown. And heels are almost unheard of! It felt to me that there was barely any style or effort that went in dressing up, for work, for social events or on the streets.

Fall time
The contrast with how people in London dress up, in office, and even on the streets was very noticeable. And the stark difference whenever I used to travel to Italy or Switzerland was just too obvious to ignore. I would land at an airport and feel that everyone was dressed up for something special, after the casualness I got used to in Amsterdam (which crept up in my own dressing too). This was another experience of mine which was confirmed by the insta creators I followed!

I think some of this love and celebration of the simple life comes from the Netherlands’s historically egalitarian society. And it’s interesting to note how it seeped into Dutch art too. Dutch artists were one of the first ones in Europe to paint scenes from the daily lives of the farmers - shifting from the royal and wealthy’s lives, and biblical themes, to scenes from the simple everyday life of the common people. Their paintings celebrated the lives of the common people. Hats off to these artists for bringing the simple life into art forefront.

The simple skyline
There is a downside to this simplicity too though. There is a popular Dutch saying ’Doe maar gewoon, dan doe je al gek genoeg', which roughly translates to ‘Just be normal, that’s crazy enough’. It kind of discourages showing off or behaving differently. Which is fine, except sometimes differences need to be accepted.

In fact, I found it quite difficult to be myself in the Netherlands often. For example, I don’t enjoy eating sandwiches, coming from a culture where food needs to be warm (and tastier!). But initially, when I voiced a preference to not have sandwiches as meals, there were always a few raised eyebrows. Also, whenever I wore Indian clothes on the tram or the train, the looks around were not very comfortable. And this is something I had never faced when in London. I think given how diverse most places are becoming, it may be good to be more accepting of not everyone having to be the same and ‘normal’.


Love of the outdoors, weather be damned

The weather in the Netherlands is quite uncomfortable. I had moved there from the UK and didn’t think it could be worse than what I was used to. But was I surprised again! I almost became a weather expert with all the research I did into how much worse the weather was there. It was colder, rainier and cloudier than London by all parameters.

Snow time
Also, it was extremely windy due to its proximity to the sea. And I feel it was windy throughout the year. Even in summer when the temperatures shown were comfortable, I would feel chilly when outdoors. By the end, I was using four different weather apps in combination to get a reasonably close to reality forecast of the weather 😂. Apple weather (was the least accurate in my opinion but sometimes was correct), Buienradar (for accurate rain predictions every 10 mins), Weeronline (for long term weather) and KNMI (which was generally more accurate overall). Can you imagine this?

And on top of this, the indoor spaces in the Netherlands aren’t very well heated either! Offices, houses, restaurants, shops - everything! I was always freezing everywhere in winters, even indoors, and had to wear thermal layers all the time (which I never had to in London). Also I heard the Dutch keep their windows open during the night in winters. Clearly, they don’t feel very cold 😂. I could never get used to that either. Never. That being said, the Dutch don’t let the weather come in the way of how they want to live their lives. Which is quite commendable.

Winter in the parks
Exercising is extremely important to the Dutch. Everyone is into multiple sports. They also love active enjoyment in the outdoors, which they pursue despite the weather. You can witness this way of life in the countless number of activities possible in the Netherlands like race biking, mountain biking, hiking, swimming, sailing, rowing, kayaking, wind surfing, kite surfing, ice skating, running, and so on, even with limited natural resources (like no hills!). And there are facilities set up everywhere in the outdoors to pursue these activities comfortably.

Flamingos while cycling
Cycling is the most common activity for the Dutch. Everyone cycles everywhere instead of walking or taking the public transport. All the time. The cycling infrastructure is at a different level in the country, with their own cycle lanes, cycle crossings and traffic lights in the cities. And even between towns and villages, there are cycle routes to get from one place to another through fields and nature, without encountering road traffic.

Cycling is a religion
And cycling is not even considered an exercise by the Dutch 😂. So the other physical activities they do are all in addition to cycling - that’s a lot of daily exercise! Also I must say, even for daily commutes, the Dutch cycle very aggressively. And so fast, even the children and the very old people. They just can’t cycle slowly and leisurely. As it is not an exercise or leisure activity for them, just a means of transport. Also no one is spared if they are slow or don’t know the rules, when in the cycle lanes.

Also the Dutch cycle irrespective of the weather. They will cycle in freezing cold, in high winds, in pouring rain, in deep snow, in icy roads. You just need to look at insta reels to know how crazy they are about cycling. Come hail or snow or rain or wind, you can’t keep a Dutch person off their bike! And what the reels show is totally true.

And this is only about the ones cycling for commuting. There are so many who cycle as a sport. You can see hundreds of them in groups on the country roads, regularly racing 100s of kms a day. Beware of them for sure, they are brutal with the slow cyclists and pedestrians on the roads. I was told by a friend - if you see a group of racers coming your way, give them way to save your life!

Summer evenings
The Netherlands isn’t a natural hiking place, as it’s known to be one of the flattest countries in the world 😉. Still credit to the Dutch, they have created many options for people to still go and have some sort of a hiking (or more like walking) experience within the country. All along the coast, there are trails to walk through the dunes to get to the sea. The Veluwe forest has many hiking options, and apparently some mountain (or hill) biking routes too. All these trails offer the ability to walk around in nature, sometimes over small hills, sometimes on sand dunes, sometimes through forests, and sometimes through grasslands to get the feel of hiking, even in a completely flat country.

The love for these physical activities is inculcated early. There is annually a week called the ‘Avondvierdaagse’ when children across the country walk every day of the week after school with their fellow students. And their parents join in too. The young ones walk around 5-10 kms a day, while the older ones may walk up to 10-15 kms!

Summertime
There are countless water bodies in the Netherlands - ponds, lakes, canals, rivers and the sea, and these provide multiple opportunities for active and leisure waterbased activities. The lakes have swimming, sailing, kayaking and other watersports facilities. In the Amstel, you can swim, boat, kayak, stand-up paddle, and do all other watersports. (I have not swum in natural lakes and rivers anywhere else as much as in the Netherlands). The BosBaan, a long water stretch in the Bos near Amsterdam, is always full of rowers and kayakers.

Boat celebrations
A lot of Dutch people own boats which they take out when the weather gets better and just float through the connected waterways in the country. The beaches are always full, in summer or winter. With kite surfers, wind surfers, sailors etc.. Or people just swim in the cold North Sea water! In fact they also have an interesting tradition. On New Year's Eve, thousands of people run into the sea at midnight, in freezing temperatures (outside as well as of the water) to welcome the new year - it's called ’Nieuwjaarsduik’!

Frozen canals
And then in freezing winters, you have ice skating on the lakes and the canals. It used to be more common decades ago, but with global warming, freezing of the lakes and canals has become less frequent now. Still when it does, everyone is out and about skating on the countless water bodies in the country. It’s still one of the sports the country feels nostalgic about, and loves talking about when it’s possible.

To encourage the active lifestyle, the Dutch even have traditional sayings like ’Je bent niet van suiker gemaakt’ - you are not made of sugar - which is used when someone complains about the rain or cold (often while cycling). It means you won't melt or dissolve, so stop complaining and carry on. Another is ’Er bestaat geen slecht weer, alleen slechte kleding’ - there is no bad weather, there is only bad clothing - which helps get over the complaining of being outdoors in the bad weather. And then a phrase called ’Uitwaaien’, which refers to a walk in the wind to clear your head (apparently it can feel like a relaxing and refreshing activity!).

Fog time
I wouldn't have understood both these terms if I hadn't lived in the Netherlands. I used to avoid bad weather initially. But unknowingly, I was living these values by the end - cycling in the rain, hiking in the icy wind, going to the beach in the cold, and so on. You don’t really have a choice. If you like the outdoors and you live in the Netherlands, you have to embrace these values. Also, slowly you start enjoying it too. Watching the Dutch live like that challenges and inspires the expats to do the same too. And it's wonderful!

Terraces
When the Dutch are not strenuously exercising, everyone is chilling. Enjoying life and spending leisure time is extremely important to everyone. When the sun comes out, everyone will be out, on a boat, or the terraces, in the parks or just sitting outside their houses with drinks in the sun. Idyllic life is valued and lived daily here, along with the active life. And I totally loved it!

Dutch way of life (Part 2)
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