In Dec 2018, I spent about 2 weeks in Argentina and Chile, mostly around the Patagonian region. We trekked around El Calafate and did the W trek in the national park of Torres Del Paine. And then spent a few days in the southernmost city of Ushuaia and four sun-filled relaxed days in the Paris of South America, Buenos Aires. I had to cut short my trip a bit, and my friends also trekked in El Chalten and visited the famous waterfall of Iguazu in the same 2 week trip.
Given how huge the countries are, we ended up taking multiple flights and buses to get from one place to another and spent 2.5 days of our trip mostly travelling across the country. So even though two weeks feels like a long time, even in this long period, we could only explore the south western part of Argentina.
Patagonian landscape |
Plan and itinerary
We were visiting both Argentina and Chile (and also Brazil for Iguazu) on this trip. So I had to go and get both visas in London beforehand, which was quite an experience. For Argentina, you could book a visa appointment only by email (in today’s day and age!!). Though the actual process to get the visa was quite simple and easy afterwards, with no charge for Indian citizens. So I had no complaints. For Chile, you had to apply online and then go in person carrying the same documents! Also the embassy did not inform you once your visa was approved and I had to go in person to check whether I could come in for the in-person meeting with the document. The whole online submission almost felt like a waste after that. So be prepared for the slightly funny visa processes if you are planning to go there.
As it was a long trip, we had a very detailed itinerary planned. And we had to make a lot of bookings beforehand to make it work seamlessly. And it did. Below is the itinerary I followed:
Day 0 - 1: Flight from London to Buenos Aires; connecting flight to El Calafate (evening); stay at Hostel Schilling
Day 2: Day trip to Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate; stay at Boutique Hotel Cantera
Day 3: Bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales (6 hours); stay at Hotel Natalino
Day 4-7: 4 days W trek / TDP sightseeing
--- Day 4: Drive rental car to Refuge Centro Torres; trek to Base de Las Torres and back; stay overnight at Refuge Centro Torres
--- Day 5: Drive to Pudeto; 9 am catamaran to Paine Grande; trek in Frances Valley to Mirador Britanico and back; stay overnight in Refuge Paine Grande
--- Day 6: Trek up to Glacier Grey; ferry to Hotel Lago Grey; stay overnight at Hotel Lago Grey
--- Day 7: Drive around TDP to explore other spots and return to Puerto Natales; stay at Hotel Aqua Terra
Day 8: Bus transfer from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas (3 hours); stay at Hotel Great Western Finis Terrace
Day 9: Bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia (12 hours); stay at Hotel Canal Beagle
Day 8: Bus transfer from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas (3 hours); stay at Hotel Great Western Finis Terrace
Day 9: Bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia (12 hours); stay at Hotel Canal Beagle
Day 10-11: 2 days in Ushuaia; visit to Penguin Island; trek to lake Esmeralda; stay at Hotel Canal Beagle; flight to Buenos Aires (late night)
Day 12-15: Buenos Aires; flight to London (afternoon); stay at Hotel Park Tower
Puerto Natales |
As this trip was very long and we had lot of free time in between, I started writing the first draft of the blog on the trip itself. So it will be quite detailed. Hopefully it is still as fun to read...
Day 0 - 1: Flight from London to Buenos Aires; connecting flight to El Calafate (evening); stay at Hostel Schilling
First view of Buenos Aires |
I was taking a connecting Aerolineas Argentinas flight to El Calafate from the local Aeroparque airport which was about an hour or so away from the international airport. I had some 3 hours between the flights and had to get out of the airport soon. But it turned out that the international airport had some immigration problems and we were made to stand in a very very long queue. I asked 3 of the officials to help me as I had a connecting flight with limited buffer time but they just told me they couldn’t help me and I had to follow the rules. So I just walked in front to the VIP line and sailed through the immigration line quickly 😜.
I then took an Uber to the other airport (which turns out is still illegal in Argentina!). So I had to take the cab from slightly outside the airport building, from the parking lot and had to sit in the front seat. I realised soon that not everyone spoke English here (the Uber driver didn’t) and even the billboards were all in Spanish. It was too late a reminder to me to brush up on the little Spanish I knew.
The drive to the other airport even though through the city, passed through many open and green areas. The roads were amazing and my first impression of Argentina was of a developed country. There was something very attractive about the city, something that was calling out to me. I don’t know what it was but I knew I would love it when I was back there at the end of my trip. I also wondered why India can’t be at least a developed country like Argentina?
The local airport was near the main city, and quite cosy and convenient. It was located right next to the sea on one side, and with a huge park and high-rises on the other side. Even though everyone had said I would easily reach the airport, I still hurried and so made it before time. After check-in, I therefore decided to have my first Argentinian meal - Hard Rock Cafe fajitas in the airport 😁.
Views from the top |
Views from the top |
Lake next to the plane |
My hostel, Hostel Schilling was quite cosy and convenient, located near the main street. My room got upgraded, so I liked it even more 😁. The owner was very helpful and helped me book my glacier tours for the next day. As it was summer and the sun set only at 11pm, I had a few hours before nightfall. It was also a very warm and sunny day, with temperature in the 20s which rarely happens in this area. So it was perfect to go out for walk and explore the town. And the owner of the hostel told me the best places to go to, to get a good taste of the town.
El Calafate is a very small little place, located on Lake Argentino and popular as the entry town to Patagonia. It has an airport and most tourists fly here to visit some of the nearby glacier parks as well as other Patagonian sights. The town of El Calafate was very small, tourist friendly, convenient and charming. It is quite spread out, with buildings all along a couple of small hills overlooking the lake. And there were some high bare cliffs overlooking the town.
Views of El Calafate |
I first found an ATM to take out cash which didn’t charge an atrocious amount just to take out cash 😆. Then I walked towards the lake which was a 20-30 mins walk from my hostel and it was a fabulous path. As I got out of town, I got some fabulous views of the town behind and the bright blue waters of the lake in the front. There were lot of grasslands next to the lake and lot of cows and horses lazing around there.
Views of the lake from the walk |
Main street at El Calafate |
Day 2: Day trip to Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate; stay at Boutique Hotel Cantera
Today I was visiting the Perito Moreno glacier which is quite close to El Calafate and the most famous attraction nearby. It is located inside the National Glacier park and you can tour it in multiple way, most of which involve going through a travel agent. You can take a walking tour which takes you on the glacier, or take a boat ride on the lake which stops at multiple glaciers on the way, take a kayak to the glacier and so on.
I chose to take the guided bus tour which takes you to the park and then you can take a boat to very close to the glacier. Taking sunglasses and sunscreen with you was most important for this part of the trip. The day turned out to be warm, bright and sunny, and it enhanced my entire tour unlike my friends who had visited it a few days earlier when it was chilly and windy. Though I still dressed up too warm for the day. And realised later why it was so much more important in these parts of the world to dress up in layers, to be ready for 22 degrees or rain or chilly 5 degree weather!
Patagonian landscape |
Driving through Patagonia |
They built these huge fenced farms and made this region their home. They started with rearing sheep, cows and horses on these farms. However, the sheep caused land erosion with their feet which were not suited to the vegetation and soil of the region, and soon Patagonia turned into a desert, reducing its ability to support large numbers of farm animals. And now the income from sheep rearing has dropped a lot in this region.
The weather in Patagonia in winter is harsh. It gets very cold and everyone has to deal with a metre of snow most of winter. Even in summer, it is generally cool-ish and windy all the time. The weather is generally said to be very variable even within a day, changing from being cloudy and very windy (its a part of their lives) to raining suddenly to become sunny and warm within no time. Of course when I was visiting, it was a warm, bright and sunny day at 22 degrees and was not a typical Patagonian day (something the guide reminded us at least 10 times during the day).
Patagonia was totally covered with ice 1000s of years ago, which created a lot of the features that we see today. Now, the whole region has more than 200 glaciers one of which was the Perito Moreno. It was part of the Patagonian ice fields which go on for 100s of kms. It is the water from all these glaciers that melts into the Argentino lake next to El Calafate. The lake is about 65 kms long and it has a milky white colour because of all the sediments that flow into it from the melting waters from the glaciers.
We got to see loads of fascinating views along the drive to the glacier. While leaving El Calafate, we passed by some wetlands next to Lago Argentino and they were full of birds, including flamingos, swans, geese etc. During summer, the wetlands are flooded with water, but right now it was dry and full of horses, cows and migratory birds grazing there. There were loads of pink flamingos here who migrate here every year from as far as the Atacama desert and Bolivia. Apparently, It was still the nesting period for them back home but the singles or the too old ones were the ones who come here this time of the year 😆.
Beautiful landscape on the way |
After the informative drive, we then entered the park, known as Parque Nacional de Glaciares. The entry fee to the park is 700 pesos. Once inside, we could see more Andean forest vegetation all around unlike the Patagonian shrub land we had left behind. The park has many glaciers, though we were only visiting Perito Moreno on the tour.
View of Perito from far |
The glacier sometimes splits the lake into two, and when more water fills in the lake, it goes over the glacier and the two parts of the lakes meet again. It has happened a few times in the last 100 years or so. There are two sides to the glacier, the north and the south side. The north one is less high and you can see it from the trail on the mountain just opposite. And you can see the south side from the boat.
Perito Moreno from the trail |
Icebergs in the lake |
North edge of the glacier |
Glacier from the boat |
Once we finished the boat ride, the bus picked us up and dropped us back at our hotel by 5pm. There is also a museum on glaciers on the way, called the glacirium which some people visited. It had been an amazing day for me and I loved the visit to the glacier. The brilliant weather had also helped as everyone said, its never so warm in Patagonia.
Once back in town, I shifted to my second hotel in the evening, the La Cantera which was on top of a hill. They had a lake view from there which was awesome. And a few birds wandering around in their premise. It was definitely a more high end hotel than my hostel of the previous day. They even sent a shuttle to pick you up from your restaurant if you go to the city centre for dinner. We had dinner at Pura Vida which was one of the few vegetarian friendly restaurants in the city, and as usual called in an early night, much before the sun set.
Day 3: Bus from El Calafate to Puerto Natales (6 hours); stay at Hotel Natalino
Most of the days we were in Patagonia, we woke up every morning to the sound of birds chirping outside our windows. And this day was no different. And then the faraway morning views of the lake from the room window was very refreshing to wake up to. The day today was mostly spent in bus travel from El Calafate to Puerto Natales in Chile (from where we would have gone onward to the park of Torres Del Paine).
We had looked at renting a car but it was proving to be a nightmare given it was an international rental, and so we were taking a local bus. The bus station was almost outside town and had buses running to a lot of locations. The whole bus network felt quite well developed and convenient. We had bought our bus tickets only 2 days before and easily got seats. Our bus was also very convenient, with double-decker space, reclining seats and footrests for the long journey.
Purple flowers on the way |
Crossing into Chile |
Once in Chile, we quickly reached the town of Puerto Natales. We checked in at the Natalino hotel which was a very small boutique hotel and quite comfortable. It had a small pool on the top floor with an impressive to view of the town, of the roofs and sea and the mountains beyond.
Puerto Natales is located close to the coast with the mountains visible from most of the city. The town is not on the ocean itself, but has lot of backwaters coming in right next to it. My first impression of the town was not very positive. It was bigger than El Calafate, and more spread out but was not as pretty or charming. It had 1-2 floor buildings all spread out.
In fact it felt very industrial in certain areas and doesn’t have much to offer other than being the entry point to Torres Del Paine. Its location though is pretty, right next to the water and mountains, and if it was in Europe, I am sure it would have been beautified and looked prettier. We walked to a few of the central streets and they were all full of shops and travel agents for tourists, all lined with trees. Even though there wasn’t much to see, it still felt nice to walk around in the sun.
Along the waterfront |
Xmas celebrations in Puerto Natales |
As with most of our trip, we had 3 tough days of trekking ahead, so we again called it an early night. Which was tough as always as the sun didn’t set till 10 pm! And it was tough to call it a day and sleep so soon.
Patagonia around TDP (2)
Argentinian cities of Ushuaia and Buenos Aires (3)
Great post. The Patagonia landscape, glaciers are amazing. To see beauty of Patagonia bookpatagonia tours with us
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