We spent about a week in summer 2021 in the small Cycladic island of Tinos. It is a small island, less than 40 kms in length, quite windy, rocky brown in colour, with shrubs and dry vegetation and dotted with small villages and cove beaches along its shore. It is quite slow and remote, living a life far away from the bustling lives we live. And the experience of living there for a week felt otherworldly almost, as if we had landed on a different planet altogether!
Typical Cycladic houses |
I loved this Greek island holiday, with the sun and water around. But the highlight for me was the slowing down, that idyllic weightless feeling, which will always remain with me as the memory of this holiday.
Itinerary in Mykonos and Tinos
- Day 1: Land in Mykonos; stay at Hotel Super Paradise Suites; explore Paradise Beach Club; dinner at Jackie O
- Day 2: Ferry from Mykonos to Tinos; stay at the village of Kardiani; dinner at Sunset Bar, Kardiani
- Day 3: Bianco beach; Lunch at Pastel Tinos; Chill at Sundara lounge on Agios Fokas beach; Dinner at Like Salt
- Day 4: Driving across the island, visiting Pyrgos and Isternia villages; Lunch at Mayou Cafe, Isternia (my favourite); Dinner at O Ntinos near Kardiani bay
- Day 5: Volax and Skalados villages; Kolimvithra (Kolibithra) beach; dinner at Kionia on Kionia beach
- Day 6: Hiking around Steni; lunch at Cafe Apodrasi
- Day 7: Kalivia beach & bar; Dinner at Drunk Sinatra
- Day 8: Ferry from Tino to Mykonos; dinner at Scorpio
- Day 9: Explore Mykonos Town; Agios Sostis beach; Principote beach bar; Nammos beach bar; dinner at Yalo at Platis Gialo beach
- Day 10: Platis Gialo beach; fly back to Amsterdam
Getting to Tinos
The whole Greek islands ferry system is extremely well setup - there are daily ferries leaving from the harbour to multiple different islands around, and there are generally multiple options available. You can easily book any of them using the ferry hopper app. We took the ferry from Mykonos to Tinos. It was a huge one, coming from Athens to Mykonos, dropping passengers to a few other islands and then going back to Athens the same day.
Each island has a main harbour, and we boarded the ferry from Mykonos harbour. The corona check-in was quick, and we spent most of our time exploring the ferry and enjoying the views outside. The ferry had a posh escalator inside and had multiple levels to it. All the floors had a few cafes, restaurants and places to sit. While going to Tinos, we sat on the top floor so we could enjoy the open air and views of the sea around. It was extremely windy though and tough to sit on the top deck - guess it was a preview of what was to come.
First view of Tinos |
Tinos harbour |
As we got off, our car rental guy met us at the harbour itself. He had the car ready, we drove to their office and sorted out the papers. The town of Tinos felt small and cute; slow and sleepy in the hot summer air. We then bought groceries from the only local supermarket which was open on a Sunday. And then were ready for our Tinos adventure.
About the island
Tinos is a very small Greek island in the Aegean Sea, about 200 km2 in area. It is one of the quieter of the Cycladic group of Greek islands, which are known for their white and blue houses, dry vegetation and windy climate. The most famous of these islands are Santorini and Mykonos, with Tinos, Paxos, Naxos etc. being the quieter ones.
Kardiani Bay, from above |
Somewhere on the island |
Our airbnb in the village of Kardiani
After landing in Tinos, we first drove towards our Airbnb in the cliff village of Kardiani. It was a 20 mins ride along the coast, and we got our first look into what the island was like - dry grasslands, sparsely populated. Our village was on a cliff and a bit tough to get to the first time as we missed the small road going down steeply towards the houses. Also our car didn't go all the way to the accommodation - we had to park it at the beginning of the village, and then walk the rest of the way through the typical narrow lanes with white Cycladic island houses on both sides.
The house was pretty and cute, with a traditional architecture. With the blue doors, and a deep pink bougainvillea plant along its door – the typical look of a Greek house we had imagined. The best part though was its terrace – an open-air seating area with an imposing view of the sea, the Ermoupouli and Giaros island far away and the setting of some spectacular sunrises and sunsets every day.
Kardiani during the day |
Kardiani at sunset |
I had a great time at the Airbnb, taking in the fresh air of a real village, a place I haven’t stayed at for a long long while. It kind of brought back memories of my village in India, the simplicity in living - something we have all left way way behind.
Kardiani village
The village of Kardiani is quite a popular stop among the tourists on the island. All day there would be many of them walking along its streets, walking down to the beach, visiting the main churches in the village and taking photos. The church which was closest to our home had a beautiful bell tower, which looked even more fabulous at night, all lighted up in orange lights. There was an old part of the village too which we explored but felt the same to me as the new one. There was a small café in the centre of town where tourists would sit for a quick snack. And admire the lighted churches in the village. And there were tons of cats everywhere, at last 200 in the village itself. As they were everywhere on the island!
Kardiani cafe |
One thing stuck in my mind though – the village felt so empty! Other than tourists, and the people running the café, we didn’t come across a lot of locals the entire week. I kept wondering where they were. Were they all staying indoors to avoid the wind, or were they generally introverted people, or were most of the houses just summer houses and empty now? With everyone back in Athens as the weather became cooler. I never got an answer to it and still wonder.
Tinos town
Tinos main street |
The town seems quite spread out, and a mix of the old and new. We mostly spent our time along the main market street, which starts from the harbour, all the way to the Panagía Evangelístria (Lady of Tinos) church, which is one of the highlights of this island. It is a very important place of pilgrimage for Greek Orthodox Christians, and each year there is a festival when thousands of people come to visit the church and island.
Tinos main street |
Inside Lady of Tinos church |
Beaches
Tinos is full of beaches as are all Greek islands I would assume. And most of the beaches are in protected coves, at places you wouldn’t know there was a beach till you get there. And which provide protection from the fast winds which overrun the island. Given the end of season, most of the beaches we went to felt quite private. At max there were not more than 12 people at any time (if at all). Some of the beach bars were still open, so there was at least some hulchul there, but the rest felt quite remote. And the water was such a deep Aegean blue, it felt like being in paradise always.
Bianco beach |
All around the cove, there were holiday homes on the cliffs around. The water was a deep blue and it was a pleasure to swim there, though it did get a bit windy. I was swimming in the warm ocean after a year and a half, and it felt like such a freeing feeling. I decided that I would swim at least half the days I was on the islands!
Sundara beach bar: We went to Sundara beach bar and lounge one afternoon, located near Tinos town on the Agios Fokas beach and stayed there all evening, again swimming in the sea. The lounge was on a very long yellow sand beach which was popular as it was on the side of the island supposed to be less windy. And it was lined with 7-8 beach bars all along, still open as they were near the town and full of people. I swam along the beach on either side of Sundara and then we went for a long walk.
Sundara Lounge |
Kolimvithra cove |
But we still hung out there in the bay for 3 hours. I swam for a couple of hours and I loved it. The deep blue colour of the water was awesome. And there was a bit of a crowd here (12 people over the 3 hours!) which still felt like being popular 😉. There was even a lifeguard there! We also saw some jellyfish in the water here, though only after we had finished swimming. So we were safe.
Kalivia beach |
Kalivia beach: One of the last beaches we went to was Kalivia beach which was located right below our Kardiani village. We would see the beach cove from our accommodation daily but ended up going there only on the last day. And what a find it was. There were 3 separate beaches in that bay, and we went to the one which was supposed to be less windy. And less windy it was. There was a beach bar there run by some locals who said as they lived there, they didn’t really need to wind up and leave. They were quite friendly too, so we had fun chatting with them.
We spent a few hours in the sun there, soaking in the heat and then the waves, just lazing around. It was a shallow beach, and though it had a few rocks, they were not so much that they would hinder our swimming. It was fabulous and I think my favourite beaches of all. As it was a relaxed day with no agenda, we made full use of it by just spending all our time in the water. And this was another beach with a lot of people, 12 at one point! So a good find overall.
Villages of Tinos
Loutra |
Church on the pass |
Tinos view |
The landscape on this side of the island was dry, but still had stone markings and fencing to separate fields. And it looked as if there was some agriculture here – we did see lots of goats and sheep too.
Pyrgos village |
Pyrgos street |
After Pyrgos, while coming back we stopped at Isternia village which was close to our village. We went to Mayou café and had lunch there. It had a stunning location, on a terrace overlooking the Aegean sea. As it was a sunny day and the café was protected from the wind (a bit), we sat there for hours. Eating, reading and just chilling in front of the sea, watching it to infinity and beyond. I could have sat there for a long while - it was my favourite restaurant of the island. After lunch at the restaurant, we walked through the village to the church and saw the markings for the coastal trail which we planned to do one of the days but never got the time. Then we came back and sat at the restaurant again😊.
Volax village from far |
Volax streets |
While driving back from Volax, we had seen a lot of villages around a valley, so we stopped at those villages too. The main one was Skalados through which the main road went. We walked a bit there and to the local church which was closed again! By this time, I think we had had enough of the typical Cycladic villages, and we didn’t really want to visit any more. So we left soon.
Hiking
One of the days, we decided to do a different activity and went hiking in the mountains, on this trail. It was supposed to be a ‘highlands’ trail, so we went up and down mountains all along. It turned out to be quite a scenic trek, but the wind hampered our progress a bit.
Our trek started and ended in the village of Steni, after a full loop. Steni was near the village of Volax where we had driven a few days ago. We parked behind the main church and started walking. The walk was through multiple villages; Steni -> Kechros -> Karya -> Exomvourgo -> Falatados -> Mesi -> Stenis. We missed two villages on the way Koumaros and Myrsini; Koumaros because it was too windy to risk going down a cliff to get to it and Myrsini because we got lost 😄.
The trail was named M1 but not marked at many places, so we had to find our route as we went along. It was fun to walk through the first few villages. Some part of the trek was through the main roads, some through the hills and some tracks. As the weather was sunny, it was fun.
The start of the trail, Stenis felt like a much richer village than others we had passed - the houses were bigger here and felt more modern. They even had gardens and amenities we hadn’t seen earlier in the smaller villages. And its chimneys had birds of metal next to them, something I had seen in Pringles Bay in South Africa before.
Karya village (most likely) |
On the way, I also walked up a hill without a path towards a church. It was closed but then I finally got inside a dovecote, which felt scary. It felt like ruins of a room with symbols all around. And inside, there was an eerie silence. I realised much later what they were – places made for doves and pigeons to nest, as a source of food for the people around. Apparently Tinos is famous for its dovecotes.
The feeling of being on that hill is difficult to describe. All around were these dried vegetation hills in brown, dotted every few kms with white houses. From here, we could see many gorgeous villages all around, all the way to the sea. And of course the many many churches everywhere. With an ominous wind blowing all around. It’s a scene difficult to describe and can only be experienced.
Somewhere on the hike |
Path to Exomvourgo |
We were going to walk down the mountain to the village of Koumaros but it got so dangerous to walk down, we just gave up on it and started walking to Falatados. It also turned out to be a much larger village – it even had apartments in it. And a beautiful church. We also saw Volax again from this side of the mountain and it felt good to recognise a village we had been to earlier – almost felt like we had built some familiarity with this island.
We got a bit lost after that and turned up in the village of Mesi before finally reaching Stenis. At the end of the day, we felt tired and stopped for lunch in Stenis, replenishing ourselves before heading back to our village. It turned out to be a fun day with some stunning views, but got too tiring too, not because of the long walk but the wind.
Restaurants
Eating out at places with breathtaking views was a definite highlight of the trip. The restaurants we went to all were different and quite unique, in terms of their food, location and views. Here is a list of some of them:
Pastel Tinos, Tinos city centre: It was a very small non-descript restaurant we went to the day we visited Bianco beach. It is near the harbour road in Tinos and offers a mix of cuisines. We sat outside for a bit, but then moved in because of the wind. The food there was very tasty and in huge quantities. And the view was interesting too, watching the ferries come and park themselves at the harbour all afternoon.
Drunk Sinatra, Tinos city centre: This restaurant looked very happening every time we were in Tinos City Centre. Except the day when we went there when it was very very quiet 😆. It had a pretty view of the main market street of Tinos though and looked quite exquisite at night with all its lights.
Like Salt restaurant |
Kionia restaurant, Kionia: This must be the least fancy restaurant we went to on our trip. And this also was on the beach with a gorgeous view of the blue waters 😆 (such high standards we had on this island!). We went there as we were late for lunch and it was one of the few places still open at that hour. It was in a touristy part of town where lot of the hotels and touristy areas were located. The food felt quite touristy, but the location was amazing. Next to the beach, with sunbeds, lashing waves and a sunset! As usual, the food quantity there was quite a lot.
Sunset Bar, Kardiani: Our first meal on the island was at the sunset bar, very close to our village. It had an amazing location, above the Kardiani village and with a panoramic view of the sea below. It also had a luxurious setup and offered Japanese food. Though it turned out to be empty the day we went as it was its last day!
So we had our dinner at the restaurant, some amazing sushi, enjoying the surreal view. It was too windy though and we couldn’t stay long. But was a good introduction to the kind of awesome places we would visit over the next week.
Sunset from O Ntinos |
Mayou Cafe |
Cafe Apodrasi, Stenis: This was a small restaurant we stopped at for lunch after our hiking around Stenis. And maybe the only restaurant without a view. And we were very hungry, but there was only one person serving everyone and he took forever to get us our Greek pancakes (which had become a favourite of mine already). They were yum though, I loved them. Also he was the only one server the entire week who was wearing masks and asked us if we are vaccinated. So kudos for that 😊.
Beach bars: We went to Kalivia beach bar and Sundara lounge when we went swimming in the sea. We didn’t eat at most of these places, but they did have some great offerings. (Details in the beach section above). Overall the food was outstanding at all the restaurants with some breath-taking views – definitely a highlight of the trip for me.
Impressions
About the island: Tinos has very less vegetation, feels desert like and has very sparsely population. It is quite mountainous, so driving is the best way to get around
It is one of the windier Cycladic islands and we noticed it every day – sometimes it was too windy to even be able to walk comfortably. And apparently there is wind the whole year round. However, the locals seem fully comfortable with it and didn’t even bat an eye or give it a second thought. Even the restaurants and shops are all set up in such a way, that nothing even flutters even when wind speeds are too high.
There are too many cats on the island. I don’t know if I can explain how many! They are everywhere, and so many. The village we were living in, every 20 seconds we would pass by another cat. It was the same in the other villages we visited. Everywhere.
People and houses: People here felt quite closed and not so open, I don’t know why. It wasn’t what I was expecting. And a lot of the locals looked obese which was a surprise to me. Also, most of the houses in the island felt locked and closed always. They had small windows which were all made of wood and always closed. Maybe because of the wind, I didn’t see a lot of glass anywhere.
The whole feeling of the place felt very rural. We saw so many animals while trekking and exploring the island. Like goat, sheep, horse, cows, donkeys and so on. We also saw loads of fruits and fruit trees everywhere, artichoke, cones, and so on. And we heard roosters near our apartment, every morning from 6 to 11am. It felt nice to live in this uncomplicated world. I wondered though what do the locals do. There was some animal rearing, and tourism too. But wonder what else they do.
Churches: The churches on the island are Greek orthodox which are different from the usual. They also have so many churches, everywhere. In the middle of nowhere, you see this white building with a blue dome and the cross, among the brown desert landscape around it. At times, in one view of a valley, I could see 10-15 small churches at the same time. Though most of them were closed at all times.
A dovecote |
Tourist season: The whole island shuts down once the summer tourist season is over, around end of September/October, after which it gets colder and windier. When we reached, lot of beach bars were no more open. And all these places employ people from Athens or elsewhere in the country, who come here every summer for work and then go back once the tourist flow reduces. So it’s very common to see the remnants of what would have been in summer.
Greek alphabet: An interesting aspect of the island was that all boards were written in the Greek alphabet. Even though similar, they were different than English. And I was trying to remember all the science and scientific constants we had learnt in school to be able to read the boards😊. It was fun to recall them all. But it also posed a problem as Google maps showed names in Greek which were then difficult to correlate with English names of places on reviews!
Driving: Driving was fun, as there were not too many roads anyways and no chances of getting lost. The roads were great, traffic was low and the views were breath-taking across all the mountains. Of panoramic views of the sea, ferries in it and islands beyond, the stunning villages on tops of hills, the valleys and so on. Sometimes there would be fogginess in the sea and you wouldn’t be able to see the islands. Sometimes it would be too windy. But always, there was so much peace and calm everywhere.
We felt it every time when driving back home, especially later in the evening. I think it was at times like this, I felt this island was miles away from civilisation. As if in its own bubble. And it felt amazing, like floating above everything. I think this is the part of this holiday that I enjoyed the most, will remember the most. The peace, calm and distance from the world we live in otherwise…
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