A week of Bahamian sun and sand, in Eleuthera (2)

Paradise

Eleuthera is one of the many islands of Bahamas, unique in its own way. It is a 100 mile long island with an average width of a mile, and has a worm like shape, making it one of a kind. At any point on the island, you are within walking distance to the sea on both sides, the Caribbean and the Atlantic. I had read a couple of reviews about what to expect before going there, but nothing had prepared me for what we finally would experience. It was like being away from the world, in a place where time had slowed down...


Getting there

Getting to Eleuthera is easy. There are three airlines which fly onto the island - Bahamas air, Pineapple air and Southern air, from the US and within Bahamas. And even though it is such a small island, it has 3 separate airports. One in the north, one in the centre and one in the south. Clearly this place is popular with tourists, who are lazy and don't want to drive too much.

We were flying out at 730 am from Nassau airport and surprisingly, it was very cold in the morning. As expected, the airport was quite small but it did have a lot of flights going to its various islands. We were flying Bahamas Air to Governors Harbour, the airport in the centre of Eleuthera, and the flight was expected to be only 15 mins. There are flights to all 3 airports on the island at around the same time, and Bahamas Air combined ours with the flight going to the Rock Sound airport, in the south.

Our small plane to Eleuthera

However, they did not change it on the display boards showing the gate numbers, and we kept waiting outside the gate showing the flight going to Governors Harbour! Thankfully we figured it out on time and got on board the right plane. It was a small propeller plane and looked charming in front of the morning Caribbean sun. Funnily enough, since two flights got combined, the seat numbers were no more relevant and they asked us to sit anywhere we wanted. Thankfully we got window seats, which was wonderful.

As the way to Eleuthera was full of stunning views. The sea there wasn't deep, and you could see the rocks at the bottom too. And then we flew over some very small islands which each had a house on it. I am sure, these must be those typical billionaire holiday homes and they looked quite desirable from above.

We first landed at the Rock Sound airport within 15 mins. It was surrounded by very dense mangrove forests all around. It was very casual there, as people were getting on and off the plane as they wished. Some even got off by mistake when they didn't need to. And a guy entered the plane through the door to take the luggage off. We then took off again for a 10 min flight to Governors Harbour.

Eleuthera from above

As we flew along the island, we could see the one central road which runs from north to south and is visible from far. And the edges of the island were lined with some stunning coastal towns, lines of elongated white sand beaches and amazing crystal blue-green waters of the Caribbean Sea. The rest of the island was full of mangroves. The views throughout this 10 mins plane ride were very captivating.

The airport was quite interesting too. We got down and walked to the room which was the terminal. A guy got our luggage from the plane and just kept it on the outside of the airport so we could pick it up 😀. There was no luggage belt there. And we asked for a taxi as it was about 15-20 mins to our hotel, 15 kms away on the main road of the island. The guy who runs the airport duty free shop at the airport also drives people to their hotels, so he got his car out and dropped us at the hotel.

We could already see that we have come far away from civilisation as the road was bare and the air warm. I asked the taxi driver a question and he answered for the rest of the 20 mins drive a prepared speech as if the radio was on 😀. He told me the history and geography of the island, about its people and their life - all as if he was reading from a prepared speech. As if he told the same story to every passenger of his. It was actually quite funny.

Even though the island is so small in terms of area, its different parts are different and have a different vibe to it. The northern part is made up of Spanish Wells and its villages have a Spanish influence plus Harbour Island, a very famous resort island for the rich and famous. The rest of the island is very sparsely populated.

The island has only about 11,000 people. Everyone knows each other, its extremely safe and no one locks their doors. It is famous for its pink sand beaches. Also, the movement for Bahamas's freedom started from this island, from Cupids Cay, a location at the Governors Harbour village where our hotel was located. Apparently our hotel was earlier part of the Club Med hotel chain, but when one of the yearly typhoons destroyed it, it was taken over and converted to French Leave Resort.


The French Leave Resort and around

Our resort

And then we reached our hotel - The French Leave Resort. Thereafter, for the next 4 days we were in a different planet altogether, life became surreal for us. The resort was out of the world - in terms of its gorgeousness, calmness, beauty and luxuriousness. It was located on the Caribbean side of the island, and had a beach on the Atlantic side. The resort was quite spread out, with individual English white bungalow style villas with full or partial ocean views. It had an infinity pool, a jacuzzi, lot of outside sitting area, a very popular restaurant and some activities to do around. All enclosed within tropical shrubs and trees.

Breakfast views

Most of our days were spent lazily lounging around the hotel itself. Morning would start with a sumptuous breakfast in the restaurant, with a gorgeous view of the blue green waters and the Governors Harbour village across the bay. It was the perfect way to start every morning.

The hotel pink sand beach

Then we would sometimes go to the beach which was on the other side of the island and we could take our golf carts to get there. The beaches on this island have a pink tinge because of a small animal called Foraminifera, which is brought to the shores by the tidal waters. Their beach was in fact a pink sand beach, and seemed endless. It was definitely one of the best beaches that I have been to. And it was mostly empty, our hotel just had some sunbeds there, that's it. The water there was sparkling green blue and the sand was white and pink. It was choppier and windier as this was the Atlantic side, so it was a bit tough to swim in the waters with the waves and the wind. There was lot of sand also in the air, which covered all our stuff. But it was still fun to lay here in the sun, enjoying the view.

One of the days I went snorkeling off this beach and was amazed by the corals and sea life. The reef was a dead one but I could see how it would have been full at some time, with the huge rocks, all covered with dead corals. There were loads of fish there, at least some 40 types. In all colours, white, blue, yellow, orange, fluorescent yellow and blue. Everywhere. I also saw a sea snake which was a first for me. I got so engrossed in the snorkeling that I lost count of time and distance. I ventured quite deep out in the sea. I was also at times swimming very close to the reefs below, but thankfully not when the snake was around 😀. I really enjoyed the snorkeling here, though the winds had made swimming in the waters a bit tough.

Infinity pool

Then we would go back to the hotel, and laze in the pool or jacuzzi or sit in the shaded area for a long time. The bay there had a striking green colour which shone brilliantly when the sun was out. Without the sun, it would look a deep blue, still pretty but not as brilliant as the green. We went snorkeling in the bay but didn't see a lot of fishes, just a few sea cucumbers and a few fish. One afternoon, I went kayaking in the waters too and loved it. It got too hot very soon though, so I came back without leaving the bay. Also apparently the water was choppier than usual, thought I didn't feel it. I have generally kayaked in much tougher waters than the Caribbean sea.

The rest of the day would go just like that. There was a gym in the hotel too (but we never used it). And the infinity pool where we were most of the time. Or the jacuzzi next to it. Even though it was warm, when the clouds were out, I would feel a bit chilly, and sit in the jacuzzi, gazing lazily at the sea.

But during peak afternoon, it would get too hot. It took me a few days to figure out how to move the umbrella around during the day, that I could still stay out in the sun, next to the pool but still not feel too hot and avoid direct sun. I also realised that the bay used to look different depending on whether the sun was out. The green that we loved would go away when the clouds were out. When it got too hot, we would come back to our villa and sleep. It felt so amazing to just laze and do nothing the whole day.

There were two jetties at the resort where boats would come and dock, sometimes the visitors would come to the resort for the day too. And the views of the jetty and the bay at sunset were magnificent. Each day we had a different view, depending on how many clouds there were on the horizon. And each sunset was unique and fascinating in its own way...

One day we ventured out to the village. It was quite average though, as it had a lot of rundown buildings. The ones on the main island, which were holiday homes were definitely prettier. The village looked glorious at sunset though, from our resort, with its twinkling lights reflecting in the calm bay water. We also found a grocery shop in the village and got groceries to cook in our villa. The cost of everything was multiple times though.

Views from our villa

Our room was upgraded to an oceanfront deluxe villa, and it was awesome. It was like those English wooden bungalows, made of wood, with lot of windows and very airy. Right outside us was the jetty and one of the best views of the resort. And the rooms were very comfortable, perfect for such a lazy life. It was so hot everyday that all we wanted to do was sleep and relax. It was like we had come into a slow time zone.

The service at the hotel was very friendly too. The owner and the managers all knew us by name and made a lot of effort to help us, whether it was getting taxis, booking rental cars or diving, giving tips on what to do and so on. In fact one of the staff was a dive master herself and helped us plan for the dive. All in all, they took great care of us. Though we had a day when there was no internet in the resort, which was tough to deal with 😀.

Peaceful evenings

And the nights at the resort were perfect. One day there was live music in the restaurant which added to the whole ambience of the place. There were countless stars in the sky that were visible. And even the Milky Way could be seen two of the nights. It felt so amazing just to sit outside, with the waves lashing on the cliffs, no sound anywhere and just the stars above. In fact one day, there was a power cut for a bit and the sky looked absolutely fabulous! When I was there, I suddenly realised its been years since I sat outside under a clear sky. It was just amazing. Of course the mosquitoes in the evenings didn't help, there were loads of them. But they would clear out by night, so we could observe the skies comfortably...


Trip to Harbour Island, diving and exploring the island

There was only one day in the 4 days that we left the resort. That day, we rented a car and drove to Harbour Island which is in the north of Eleuthera. You can rent cars from the locals, most of which are second hand cars. Ours was a Japanese one, with instructions in Japanese. But it got us where we needed to go, so no complaints.

We had an early morning diving start from Harbour Island, and so left around 7 am from our hotel. The drive was about 50 miles and along the central road, known as the Queens road. While driving out, we didn't stop much on the way, just kept driving north. The sun was coming out and the morning colours were very refreshing. It was also coldish in the morning which we hadn't expected.

On the way, we crossed lot of small towns along that one single road. There were lot of bungalows on the sides, all isolated from each other and with sea views. The rest of the drive was just surrounded by green dense mangrove vegetation all around. We sometimes would come near the sea and sometimes would drive in the interiors. One noteworthy place on the way was Hatchet Bay which was quite crowded (relatively). Apparently the ferry from other islands comes here, docking inside the lagoon protected from the open sea. It would be good to come here sometime later.

We kept driving like this (the road was pretty good) and then turned right for the airport in the north. Right next to it is the ferry terminal at 3IS from where you can get boats to Harbour Island. This island is clearly popular with Americans, as direct flights come to this north airport from the US. We also saw a law firm's charter plane at the airport. And you can just get out and drive 10 mins to the ferry to Harbour Island.

Harbour Island

The water taxis leave from there every few mins as soon as it is full, and costs $6. A lot of locals stay on Eleuthera island and go across daily on work. Interestingly, they all say hi and talk and chat with the people in the taxi which felt like a welcome change. The taxi dropped us at the Valentines resort where our dive centre was located.

On the way to dive site

The day was glorious and sunny. We took a boat from the resort and they took us some 30 mins away to our dive site. The boat ride there was scenic. The water was not very deep all the way, sometimes just 7 feet deep and had a great sparkling green colour. At times, we could see the rocks on the bottom and sometimes the reefs too. We also crossed a few islands with holiday homes, seeing up close the lives of the rich and the famous.

Corals on rocks

The boat driver was quite talkative and told us titbits about his country. Apparently the Bahamian flag has 3 colours which stand for its people (black), sun (yellow) and turquoise (waters). He said he was from the island of Abacos which was all destroyed in the typhoon season and that's why he was working here.

Moray Eel

Our first dive site was at a wreck, called St. Fuegos. It was a good dive with lot of small reefs and some usual fishes. The next dive at Cabbage patch was outstanding. First, we saw loads of different kinds of fishes, lobsters, moray eels, lion fish, file fish, sea cucumber, sting ray and so on. There were some corals too. And it was fun to explore all the huge rocks and their surrounding plant life.

Dolphins

The crowning glory though were the dolphins! It happened in the middle of the dive when a group of four dolphins came near us, and I was late to spot them. They left soon enough, and I thought that maybe I had imagined the whole scene. We swam around a bit after that when I kept trying to figure out if I really had seen them or not, when the dolphins came back again. They kept circling us, swimming fast and slow, diving in and playing with the rocks, and generally having a good time. They then swam away and I was happy that this time I had got a good look at them at least.

Dolphins up close

They then came back a third time, as if coming back to make sure we had seen them play 😝. We could hear their whistles, watched their acrobatics in the water, and were just mesmerised with their antics. I think I forgot for a moment to breathe too, I was just so engrossed in watching them play around, swim around us and almost come face to face with us, as if smiling 😊. I think after this, we didn't really care about seeing anything else on the dive. It was already the dive of a lifetime and I felt on top of the world.

Dolphins

Dolphins

Dolphins

Lion fish

After this, I think we were done for the day. We went to eat at the Blue Bar and were surprised at how expensive the whole island was. We then explored a bit of the island and walked to the Pink Sands beach which is supposed to be the most famous beach of the island. To be honest, our hotel beach was definitely better. Though apparently the sand gets pinker on some days, especially during sunset. The beach was nice, with blue waters and white pink sand till where you could see. There was wind still and the water had too many waves.

Pink sand beach on Harbour Island

Its so hot during the afternoon that it makes you very lazy. We could have explored the island on golf carts but didn't. We did come across some churches and lot of pastel coloured houses which were very pretty. After spending some time on the beach, we walked back and took our water taxi to our car.

So we started our drive back and even though we had decided to stop and explore a few places on the way back, we finally didn't. We only stopped at the glass bridge which is the narrowest point of the island, where the island is barely 24 feet wide! And standing there you get a view which I hadn't imagined till then. On the one side is the Caribbean sea, green, shallow and very calm. And on the other side, the deep blue deep choppy waters of the Atlantic. Their difference is quite stark. Looking at this scene this way made me see the differences clearly. And it felt quite exhilarating to stand in the middle, where two oceans meet.

Between the oceans

While coming back we also stopped at the famous cliffs of the island but couldn't find them, so we just came back. Back to our resort before sunset, we sat in the pool and jacuzzi and enjoyed the sunset from our room. There are a few other places to visit on the island, like Gregory Town, Caulding Cay for its snorkeling, 'Ocean Hole' for its natural inland swimming and the Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve. We didn't venture out much from our resort, so missed these places but they may be fun if you have more time.


And just like that our vacation ended. We were flying back to Nassau on the short 15 min flight and then off to London. We again had an early morning flight (somehow, 4 of the 7 mornings we had to wake up at 6 am which wasn't fun). There were dark clouds today, so it was colder. The taxi driver on the way back was also chatty. He was saying that sometimes they do get a cold wave in the island, when the temperatures touch 21 degrees Celcius 😁. Apparently the island is so safe, that people rarely lock their doors or cars. Also it is cheaper to go from Eleuthera to Miami than other islands in the Bahamas, so a lot of locals would have been to the US but not to the other islands of Bahamas! That was a very interesting piece of information.

Governors Harbour "airport"

The airport was full of people as it was just a room and there were multiple flights at the same time. But it had very simple processes, so we were ready to board very soon. We landed at Nassau on time and had to take a different terminal to go to US. However, they have immigration check at the Bahamas airport itself, which makes the connections in US a lot easier. And their restaurants have outside seating, which I found quite interesting. It even started raining today, though we didn't mind as we were leaving. And just like that, our vacation was over.

This trip was definitely one of my best, and the laziest. The place was lovely and I can see myself going back to Bahamas, maybe to a different island next time. By the way, its definitely not a cheap holiday by any standards. The food, the travel, the hotels are all exorbitantly expensive. Plus they all charge 20% tip on top of everything. And the hotels charge extra charges per day plus service charge on top of the room rates.

Still I loved it. The Caribbean is always the best place to relax, with the waters, the sun and the amazing vibe of the people. My all time favourite holiday destination...

Nassau(1)

A week of Bahamian sun and sand, in Nassau (1)

This winter, I landed in Bahamas for a week long trip, booked literally the last minute. And I must say, I had one of my most exotic, fun and relaxed trips in a long while! But it definitely had nothing to do with the lateness of the trip 😜. It is just that the Bahamas (and I think most of the Caribbean) has this amazing ability to make any vacation feel outstanding. The warm air, the blue green waters and the chill vibe of the people needs nothing else to make you forget everything else. And just enjoy the feeling of being. The trip to Bahamas was just like that...

We stayed two days in Nassau, the capital of the country. We found it to be a nice relaxed place, even though most reviews rate it as too busy and full of tourists. We explored the local fish market, the downtown and Paradise Island over the two days. And I didn't feel it was too crowded at all when I was there. But when we went to our next location, the remote island of Eleuthera, it dawned on me what people really meant by their comments. It was in comparison to the other remote parts of the country. In Eleuthera, we stayed at the French Leave resort and it was pure paradise. It was a remote resort, with lovely luxurious villas, facing the crystal green Caribbean sea in front and the famed pink sand beaches on the Atlantic side. We had such a fabulous time at the resort that we got out only once in 4 days! It felt heavenly, just to laze in the sea, the pool, the beach or chill in the room the whole day. We needed nothing else...


The trip to Bahamas needed a bit of research as it has many big islands and each is different. So you need to figure out what you want to do and which island you want to go to. All the islands sounded awesome and I was torn by which island to pick in addition to Nassau. We had to stay in Nassau on Providence Island for 2 days anyways as our flights were landing there.

The Bimini has great diving while Andros has vast forests, mangroves and reefs in its national parks. The Grand Bahamas has unique diving and swimming with the sharks options, especially in the Lucayan National Park while Exumas have some amazing highlights like iguana islands, sharks islands and swimming pigs islands, spread across its various Cays (small islands).

It's not really easy to commute between the islands. There are ferry services between them but these ferries are not regular. So it was a bit tough to plan the connections. The Exumas sounded interesting but the flights did not work for us as they only flew to the main city, Georgetown. Getting to the smaller Cays from there was still quite a long and expensive affair. You might as well do a day tour from Nassau to visit the Cays rather than fly there. (In hindsight I feel it is best to tour the Caribbean on a cruise ship. The transport becomes easier. During the day you can explore the islands, and use the nights to get to the next island. It is definitely worth it in the Caribbean)

After a lot of permutations and combinations, I finally realised I could book an amazing resort in Eleuthera using hotel points and we could get there easily by flight. So we booked the hotel and decided to stay in Eleuthera of all the islands. We didn't find much luck in booking airbnbs in Nassau, and so decided on a downtown hotel, booked the day we were flying! Given all the last minute bookings without enough research, I was somehow expecting something to fall apart on the trip. But nothing like that happened at all 😁.


Introduction to Bahamian life in Nassau

Getting there

It took me a bit long to get to Nassau, as given how late we booked, we were only able to find flights with 2 connections to get there. I had a long journey ahead with stops in Charlotte and Miami in US. My first flight was a long one to Charlotte. A Jamaican woman sat next to me and brought back memories of my last trip to the Caribbean. We talked about all the places I had visited in Jamaica. She was quite shocked that we had driven to all those places as she felt it was unsafe to drive there. Well...!

The connection time was quite short at the second stop, in Miami. So I was a bit worried about missing my flight. Initially I was impressed with American Airlines, given how efficiently we connected in Charlotte. This included getting out of (US!) immigration, getting my luggage, checking it in again and then going through security too again. This took literally 30 mins at the airport and so I got 2 hours to spend in the AA lounge. And their lounge definitely felt better than BA lounges. They had better seats, and even a nachos counter which was preparing fresh guacamole for everyone. I loved it.

Even though I was going to the Bahamas, the first day felt very American. I felt an onslaught of American accent on the flight itself and then in the airport. A visit to US also always reminds me how much more polite people in UK and Europe are.

By the time I was landing in Miami, it was evening and Miami looked stunning while landing. With its high rises along the beach and the glittering lights all along. This view never fails to stun you. My flight was 30 mins late, and I missed my connection as I had only a 40 min layover. I guess the flight could have waited for me but they didn't.

AA do have a standard process setup for missed connections. Very quickly, the service desk gave me a hotel for the night, vouchers for meals and a shuttle to get these. But the rest of the process took too long. It took almost an hour to get onto the shuttle though the guy had assured me that he had booked me a personal shuttle to the hotel! By the time I reached the hotel, it was very late. So I spent about 5 hours in the Miccosukee resort, which turned out to be an Indian casino hotel. I was tempted to sit on the blackjack tables but good sense prevailed and I decided to sleep, even if only for 5 hours.

Landing in Bahamas

The next morning, I got to the airport to get to Nassau. And realised again, how the US airports are never fun - they have long queues at security and the staff are quite rude. Anyways I made it through and was soon on a small plane to Nassau. The plane ride was very short, barely 40 mins. No wonder Bahamas is so popular among the Americans. And the first views of the islands, peeking out of the clouds were spectacular. All you can see are small green islands, surrounded by green waters. The view was enough to get me in a relaxed mode! And the ambience at the airport added to that mode. There was a person dressed in Bahamian carnival clothes, welcoming all incoming tourists with Indian style dhol music. And the immigration area had a live band playing music. It was already a good sign of things to come 😊.

We were staying at the Marriott on Junkanoo Beach, and I took a taxi till there. The way was all through green areas, with some mangroves and some small lakes here and there. It felt quite open, with good roads and lot of bungalows around, which must have been holiday homes most likely. The sun was out and the air was warm already. And I was all ready for the trip to start.

Most of our two days were spent in and around our hotel in downtown Nassau, with a trip to the neighbouring Paradise Island once and the fish fry multiple times a day.


Downtown Nassau

Cruise ships around Nassau

Downtown Nassau has been called a tourist trap, crowded and so on. I was a bit skeptical on what to expect there, but to be honest, it was pretty good. They do get a daily dose of cruises coming in everyday. We could see 5-6 cruise ships parked in the harbour every day from 11 am to 5 pm. And during these times, the downtown was quite full of tourists and activity all around. The beaches would be full of water sports, the shops and local market trying to sell their stuff, the restaurants were full of people eating and listening to music and the roads full of people walking around. And after 5 pm, it would suddenly go all quiet. And after that, all that was left were a few of the inland tourists walking around. Most of the shops and restaurants would also close down after that. And because of the quieter mornings and evenings, I didn't mind the extra activity during the day at all.

In Nassau, we spent our time in 4 different areas, all within walking distance. One was at the fish fry at Arawak Cay - apparently its the place where the locals eat. It was a local market within walking distance to our hotel. It was a collection of many small and big shacks serving local food, near the beach. It was always lively any time of the day, with live music playing and tons of people walking around. We had one lunch and two dinners there, at the Brunos, Twin Brothers and Goldie's. And all of them offered great food, especially the fish and seafood was quite tasty.

Indoor straw market

The second area we walked around a lot was the main market on the waterfront along Bay Street. The whole atmosphere was quite alive, with crowds all around but still had an element of relaxation. It was lined with the usual stores, selling branded and local stuff. And had many restaurants with a view of the sea. But my favourite place was the covered straw market, where the locals came to sell their products. The straw and wooden products there were exquisite. And walking around felt so much fun.

Market near waterfront

I also strolled through one of the colourfully decorated streets on Bay Street and walked into a store which was selling Indian stuff. It turned out that the the owner was also Indian, from Mumbai. He had decided to migrate to Bahamas, and I can't question that decision 😜. We spent a lot of our time just walking around the market area, exploring the shops, beaches and the marina. There were tons of restaurants there with good food and loud music. Our favourite was still the fish fry.

Nassau bungalows

The third area I explored was Nassau town. It was mostly empty as all the cruisers stayed around the waterfront and Bay street. So I decided to walk along the small quiet lanes away from the madness. The town is very small, located on a small hill, and you can walk up and down the streets. I loved the pastel coloured houses in town, everything was in different shades of pink, blue, green or yellow. And there were lot of huge British bungalows on top of the hill, those huge airy wooden houses (which I love!). How lovely they looked, in this paradise of sun and sand. We also walked to the Fincastle Fort and Queens Staircase in town on top of Bennet's Hill which gave a picturesque view of the town around. We could see all of Paradise island and all the cruises shining in the sun during evening. The town looks lovely when walking through it.

The beach

The fourth area we walked around a lot was the beach and the pathway next to the water. Right in front of our hotel was the Junkanoo beach which was spectacular. It was lined with coconut trees, the sand was white and the water deep blue and green. You could see the cruise ships and Paradise Island across the waters beyond. It was empty most of the days, but got extremely happening when the cruise ships were in. It would get crowded then and was fun to just observe. People would be going for water sports, playing games or just dancing on the beach. I loved it totally. Just walking by it multiple times in a day was uplifting by itself.


Paradise Island

Paradise Island is a small island very near the main Providence Island of Nassau, which has been developed into a luxury island. The main stay of the island is the resort of Atlantis which covers most of it and is visible from all around because of its trademark shape.

It is also home to a lot of celebrities, all of whom have their bungalows on the island. Like Oprah Winfrey, Tiger Woods, Michael Jordan and so on. And some fancy yoga retreats, all of which are not connected by road but can be reached only by boat. It is connected to Nassau through a bridge now, but the best way to get there is to take the small water taxis from downtown which run every 30 mins. The trip costs $4 and is 15 mins during which the guide tells you the history of the island. Apparently it was called Hog Island but they changed its name as no one liked visiting a place called Hog island!

And once there, you have many options. You have the usual Atlantis options of adventure park, dolphin parks, casinos etc.. And the resort is HUGE! We walked in while trying to get to our beach and kept walking for 10-15 minutes before we could get out. But we chose to go to one of the beaches, Cabbage beach.

Cabbage beach

It was a long beach with white sand and deep blue waters. The weather was sunny and warm. But it was quite windy and the water was full of very high waves because the beach faced the open Atlantic. So it was a bit tough to swim there for too long. We sat in the sun for a bit, read some books and then had a lazy lunch at Viola's restaurant which had an outside seating area. It is located right next to the Sunrise Beach Villas and I found them a great location to stay.

Paradise Island

And then we decided to walk back to our hotel. First we came across a small pond, randomly on the island itself, which was full of tortoise and fish! Some 100s of tortoise. While crossing the bridge, we got to see some interesting views. On one side, we could see all the cruise ships lined against each other. Then the mail boats which sometimes transport people between the islands. And on the other side we got a view of the green island, with Atlantis as its crown. And the blue waters in between this all.

Walk back

Its a view which I think a lot of tourists don't see. We then kept walking for an hour back to Nassau, through the bylanes of the island, all empty streets, lined with pastel coloured houses. It was fun, but we also realised that its not that easy to walk a lot in the humid Caribbean sun.


Our hotel

We were staying at the Marriott on Junkanoo beach. The hotel was not too high end but was comfortable and quite convenient. It was located right on the beach and was very close to downtown and Fish fry. And a good place to stay if you are not looking for luxury. It reminded me of the Marriott Courtyard in Kingston, Jamaica that I stayed in for many months.

Cruise ship leaving the harbour

It had all the amenities you would need. A view of the beach and the shallow waters. In the evening you could just lie next to the pool, watching as one by one, the cruises leave the bay, shining in the setting sun. And at night, you could hear the sound of ocean waves in the background while sleeping (if you left the balcony windows open). I would totally recommend this hotel irrespective of what the reviews online say.


Other things to do in Nassau

There are loads of other things to do in Nassau which we had researched on but never got to do. Some are mainstream but a few give an inside view to the other real side of Nassau. Here are a few:
- Explore Atlantis, e.g., take a day-pass to the rides at Aquaventure or visit the Dolphin Cay Atlantis
- Visit Pirates Cove Beach, Casuarina Beach or Paradise Beach on Paradise Island, if you are looking for peace, quiet and seclusion
- Take a day trip to Rose Island or Pearl Island
- Snorkel around Love Beach and explore the undersea sculptures at Clifton Heritage National Park
- Take a dive trip to Stuart Cove and spend time on Cable Beach and the bars of Baha Mar
- Take a day trip to the Blue lagoon
- Visit some original Bahamian villages, like Adelaide, Fox Hill or Gambier
- Try the local drink, sky juice made of gin, coconut water and sweetened condensed milk


Impressions

I left Nassau feeling very happy, and having enjoyed being there. Everything was awesome - the weather, the views the vibe and the people. Nassau has great sunsets, every evening. Sitting and observing them is definitely a great end to every evening.

The people here felt a lot friendlier than in Jamaica. Even the shopkeepers did not hustle or try to sell their stuff aggressively. It felt they were more keen to strike a conversation than sell their stuff. The locals spoke in something like a Trinidadian sing song accent. And the ones involved in tourist facing jobs all had very strong American accents.

There was quite a lot of traffic. Surprisingly, the cars have both left and right hand drive, because most of the cars here are used cars from US and other parts of the world. It must definitely be interesting to drive like this. The island is quite expensive also, from food to travel to stay. They do accept US dollars everywhere though, which helps.

Overall, I wouldn't say Nassau is a must do but would definitely rate it as a great place to spend a day or two. Especially when connecting with the other islands. It is good to be with crowds for a while, as you won't get much on the other islands...

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