Monday, December 26, 2022

A week in Joshua Tree National Park


During the winter of January 22, after a week in San Diego, we then spent a week hiking and exploring the sunny Joshua Tree national park. It was quite a nice week overall and as it was sunny, that amplified the experience even more.

Our itinerary for the week was as follows:
Day 1,2: Drive to Joshua Tree town and explore near our airbnb
Day 3: Hiking in Joshua Tree national park: Hidden Valley, Cap Road and sunset at Keys View
Day 4: Hiking in JT park: Forty Nine Palms Oasis trail, Contact Mine trail
Day 5: Visit Pioneertown, hiking in JT park: Lost Horse Mine trail
Day 6: Hiking in JT park: Ryan mountain, Skull Rock, Discovery, Face Rock, Split Rock trails; sunset at Keys View and star gazing at night
Day 7: Back to base, the Bay area


Drive to Joshua Tree town

We had a full day long drive from San Diego to Joshua Tree town through some really gorgeous landscapes. The whole drive was sunny and clear, so we could see far and clear. And slowly, we also started to get the feeling that we are slowly moving towards outback country, the old west cowboy land.

Mountains during the drive
The first half of the drive was mountainous and green. We drove through valleys surrounded by rolling green hills everywhere. The whole area was continuously inhabited, with developments everywhere. Some were small village like settlements and some larger, with most of them made up of lavish and huge houses along the sides of the hills as well as on the top. Some of them were quite pretty too, with orange roofs and white walls – it almost reminded me of Europe. There were also lots of farms on the way, some bigger and some smaller, with some animals here and there. Soon, we could see faraway mountains with snow covered peaks. And they stayed with us the whole way. This side of the mountains was still green country, and the other side turned brown, sandy and desert.

Wilson Creek Vineyard
Our airbnb was available much later in the day, so we decided to spend some more time on the way. We first stopped at Temecula wine country as we saw its boards on the way. So we just drove around, and decided to stop at a random winery for lunch. The area was full of many different vineyards all around, and we drove into the Wilson Creek vineyard. It was a huge place with lot of outside seating and views of snow covered mountains far off. It was also very touristy and full of people, clearly a popular spot. We walked a bit in the vineyards - the grape wines were all dried up at that time - had a quick lunch and then were off.

Our next stop was an outlet mall, in the middle of nowhere, at Cabazon. We were definitely not expecting a shopping place in the middle of our drive. As we did have a few things we needed to buy, we stopped there and were surprised by how crowded it was. Full, and since it was still corona time, we didn’t spend a lot of time there. It was a nice stop nevertheless, with views of snow covered mountains on the one side, and lot of premium outlets on the other.

Our drive after continued through many valleys, all with their own unique feel and landscape. Hemet valley was lined with snow mountains, panoramic views, lakes and gated communities. There were a few stunning settlements there and lot of cow farms. As soon as we crossed the snow covered mountains, the valleys become brown, sandy and desert like. The mountains were all bare and brown, still sparkling though as it was sunset time by the time we reached there.

When we reached the Joshua Park region, we passed through two towns, Joshua Tree and Yucca Valley. Both were large spread out towns straight out of cowboy movies. They all had just one floor buildings situated quite far from each other. They felt more like villages, but had all the city amenities. And all around was just the brown desert. It felt like such a different world altogether. This was the first time I had been to a place like this, it felt like I had come to cowboy country! And so I was looking forward to what the next week would bring.


Joshua Tree town 

We stayed at JT town for a week. It was a spread out city, all yellow, with houses going up mountains on both sides. All were just one floor houses with loads of empty spaces everywhere. There were so many churches here too. The population of the city was just 8000 people, so surprising! The joshua tree and cactus plants were everywhere. There were so many different types of cacti around. Locals grew many types in their own gardens – some really impressive ones and some weird ones. This was the first time I had seen cactus being grown in gardens - it really felt like the wild wild west.

Sunset near our airbnb
We also saw some magnificent sunsets everyday, it looked like they were a regular daily occurrence in this part of the world. Maybe because of the clear skies, yellow brown ground and the vast expansive valleys. Or maybe something else. And the whole sky would become colourful at that time. 

On the one side would be the sun, all in yellow and orange shades. And the opposite side of the sky would have all shades of pink! The pinks disappear before, while the orange and yellow side stays brighter for longer. I had never figured out till now that the colours opposite the sunset sky have the pink and purple shades (guess because we live in cities where we can only see far off in one direction at a time, but in flat deserts, one can easily see both sides on the flat expanse).

I spent some time exploring the area around our Airbnb and it all felt like from a different world altogether. I went for a few runs in the neighbourhood, and I was surprised by the number of dogs barking at everyone. Plus the number of boards warning strangers off their private gardens. Apparently they can (and will) shoot at someone on their premises, so I was extremely careful while running in the hood to not take even one step off the road.


Joshua Tree National Park

Most of our time over the next week was spent in the Joshua Tree park itself. It’s a huge area named after its most famous resident, the Joshua tree. There are a few entrances to the park and you need to sometimes queue to get in, as there are not that many ways to get in there. Just outside the entrance we used every time, there are a few large gorgeous houses, especially a red one right next to the entrance gate. It’s really impressive, and feels like living life king-size in such a location.

The park is a huge flat expanse of bare desert land with some mountains at places, and some really stark landscapes and structures. The boulders and mountain formations everywhere are quite interesting too. The valleys are full of Joshua trees and different kinds of shrubs, while the mountains are more bare.

Sunset view behind the Joshua tree
The Joshua trees inhabit the valley till wherever the eye can see. Like a sea of trees. They have a thick bark, and the leaves look like Chewbacca from Star Wars. They are scary and fascinating at the same time. But definitely something you cannot ignore, given they have a city and a national park named after them. They tend to suck all the water from the ground, and so don’t allow any vegetation to grow near them. That’s why they all grow at a distance. Except of course if they have multiple stalks from the same root, and then there could be multiple barks next to each other at the same spot.

The jungles (or groups of Joshua trees) were different from each other depending on the part of the park. At some places, all the joshua trees had multiple barks. Someplace else they all had branches and were dense. And somewhere else, they were all younger, with just one bark. But they were always far away from each other.

Cholla cactus
The other common plant in the park was the cholla cactus – they are so gorgeous and shine in a golden hue during the evening sunsets. They look quite surreal in the evenings actually. There is one trail where you can apparently see a sea of these cactus shining in the night but we couldn’t get there as that was too far.

The park is huge and getting from one end to the other takes forever. So whenever we entered the park, we spent time exploring the trails in that particular section of the park itself. This website has a good list of hikes, and we picked a few from this for our week in the park. All the trails are very well maintained and have lot of markings, with small boards guiding you all the way. So it was very convenient to be there and explore what all it had to offer. 


Hidden Valley, Cap Road and sunset at Keys View

Valley trail
On our first day in the park, we did three short trails, the Hidden Valley, Cap Road and Keys trail. The Hidden Valley is a short walk through some huge boulders into almost a kind of oasis. This oasis has a completely different flora than the rest of the park and is surrounded by huge boulders and small hills on all sides. Some of the trekkers were also doing some rock climbing adventures there. 

Because this valley is secluded, it gets more rainfall than the other areas and hence has non-desert type of vegetation. In fact huge green trees like wild oaks. This valley is so well hidden, that it was apparently used by rogue farmers in the old times to keep stolen cattle, so that no one could find them, and they got enough greens to eat. 

Exotic cactus
The Cap Rock trail was a very short walk, and had many kinds of interesting desert plants along it, mostly shrubs. Some of them were bright coloured, with red bristles or orange flowers, while some were typical brown desert plants. I am not a person drawn to deserts naturally. Forests and greenery are more my thing. Still the beauty of some of the desert plants here was tough to ignore. And I soon started looking for these beautiful varieties, tracking them on my other trails.

Sunset from the Keys
The last trail of the day wasn’t really a trail. We drove to the end of one of the roads to see the sunset, at the Keys View. That location was magnificent. And surprisingly, the joshua trees here were denser than the other parts of the park. There was a view point from where you could see the sunset, as well as all the way till the Salton Lake on one side and the valley of Palm Springs on the other.


Sunset from the Keys

It was such a magnificient location that you could see valleys and high peaks all around you. And with the sunset, so many beautiful colours came into view – the bright yellow of the setting sun, as well as the pink on the opposite side. This was definitely a highlight of the trip for me, standing on a boulder at Keys and looking all around, getting lost in the magic and grandeur of nature. Pinks on one side, yellows on the other. And a view till 100s of miles afar, of lakes and cities and mountains and peaks. It was absolutely stunning.

Also, even though the day had been warm and sunny all day, the temperature just dropped right after sunset – typical desert climate. So after enjoying the magical sunset, we had to run back to our cars to get back and out of the park soon enough.


Forty-nine Palms Oasis and Contact Mine trails

The Forty-nine Palms Oasis trail can only be accessed from outside the park, and is supposed to be a very hot weather trail. It is named so as it ends at 49 palms growing on a barren hill with a hidden water stream flowing right next to them – hence its known as the oasis trail.

49 palms from far
The trail was about 3 miles and we took about 1.5 hours to finish it. First we walked up the mountain ledge for a while, crossed onto the other side and then went down to get to the palms and the oasis. As soon as you first get over the mountain ledge, you can already spot the 49 palms from far off. This helps motivate you towards the end of the hike. 

Red barrel cactus
On this trail, we also noticed a lot of red barrel cactus dotting the mountainside. They were so red and some were really huge. And once you see them, you keep spotting them all the time. I found them quite interesting. At the end of the hike, you get to this group of huge green palm trees, with a stream of water flowing hidden in the bottom. It’s really a work of nature to find such a random group of trees peeping at you from behind the mountains.

49 palms oasis
Apparently if you are lucky, you can even spot local wildlife at the stream, when they come there to drink, but we didn’t see anything. We did see some of the tree barks had been burnt due to fires in the past. So there were lot of rules for hikers here – to not go down to the oasis, to not disturb the wildlife, and to not light fires. Also there were multiple boards in the area asking everyone to stay hydrated, as there had been a few deaths here due to the heat.

Anyways once we reached there, we had a good short break with some food and water. And we really enjoyed sitting under the cool shade of the trees after the long and sunny hike. Overall, it was a nice hike and we enjoyed it.

Contact Mine Trail
After this, we decided to go to the Contact Mine trail, entering from a different part of the park and realised that there were no Joshua trees at all at this side of the park! There were a lot more palm trees but no Joshua trees. As it was already late, we walked just a short part of the trail. As usual we saw some interesting shrubs, as well as a gorgeous sunset again. We could also see the sun and moon together. that day As it was getting dark, we cut short our hike and left the park soon enough.


Pioneertown

Pioneertown
One of the days, we visited Pioneertown, a town built like a cowboys movie set, like the wild wild west. Apparently part of it was built for movie shootings, and the other part of it was for people to stay in. Interestingly, there were no joshua trees there. Only the shrubs with orange fruits and parasitic plants on them.

The town felt so real and yet so old, like a ghost town. With a local post office and tavern, a sheriff’s office, a bank, and the big cactus, all built in the old style. We spent some time just walking around town and it felt like we were back in time. We didn't stay long there, it was quite a short but interesting experience.


Lost Horse Mine trail

Huge white flowers
The Lost Horse Mine trail is one of the longer trails of the park. We walked about 7kms to and fro, in about 2 hours. This hike goes up the mountains through a few ranges, to the old gold mine from the times of the Californian Gold Rush. It is quite a wide hike, though steep most of the way. On the way, we saw some huge white flowers which were gorgeous. And once we saw them, we kept seeing more of them the whole time. At a different time of the year, I think the whole valley would be full of them and they would have looked so pretty. 

View from the Mine trail
We saw a few people running up the trail which was quite impressive. But otherwise it was quite empty. The views all through were quite stunning. Once we reached the old mine, we read its history - it had been restored recently and still worked. Though there was no more gold anymore. 

Panoramic view from top
On a whim, we decided to walk up a bit more behind the mine to go to the top of the hill and we were greeted with a magnificent view, which was another highlight of the trip for me. The view from the top was out of this world. We saw a valley far off with boulderous structures everywhere as if from Star Wars. And there were no roads going there, it was like the lost land. And the clouds by then had spread out in the sky in a beautiful pattern. We got some really nice life-changing photos up there.

Sunset on the trail
And while coming back, all these clouds turned a golden yellow, setting the perfect background for the Joshua trees. I think I saw one of my best sunsets on this hike while coming back, it was quite stunning and surreal. I loved this hike because of the sunset, though I understand it was a chance incident. But still…


Ryan mountain, Skull Rock trail and star gazing

The Ryan mountain is one of the highest points of the park and we did a 5 kms, 1.5 hours trek to the peak. It was a nice hike, with some panoramic views of the park around, and all the mountains and peaks around. It was mostly an uphill trek and offered quite similar views other of the valleys below. At the top, we walked to the two peaks, and both had 360 degrees views of the valleys on both sides.

Looks like a dinosaur?
After that, we did a very long trail in another part of the park, where we first started walking towards Skull Rock. And then kept following the trail to Discovery trail, Face Rock and Split Rock trail one after the other. The walk was mostly flat but had some really impressive rock faces. In fact the skull rock was quite ok. But we saw more shapes, including a dinosaur which felt more true to their names. There were also lot of huge boulders everywhere, and we climbed one steep one to have lunch on top. 

There were lot of crowds near the skull rock, but the rest of the trail was mostly empty. And we ended up walking a much longer round than we had expected, more than 8 kms. And we thought a few times that we were lost. But thankfully that wasn’t the case. It was a nice walk, tiring though. And as usual my interest was piqued when I noticed and followed some new plants around. 

After this unexpected delay, we drove to the Keys again and saw the last minutes of another stunning sunset. After the sunset, we thought we might want to do some star gazing and drove to one of the star gazing points. There were loads of people there. We did see the milky way, but not a lot more that night. Partially because of the crowds, but also because the moon was out in full that night, big and bright. Guess if we had stayed till later in the night, we would have seen more but we got tired after an hour or so and left. But apparently it is one of the highlights of the park.


And that was our last evening in Joshua Tree. Overall I loved this national park, it was different. And even though it was a desert, I found all the trails slightly different than each other. Its definitely a place I can come back to, even just for its mesmerising sunsets.


Sunday, December 18, 2022

A week in America’s Finest City, San Diego


La Jolla coves near San Diego
I spent a month during winter of 2021-22 in California, in San Diego, Joshua Tree National Park and the Bay Area. The key reason for this travel was to avoid the lockdown and winter time of Amsterdam. in addition to that, I also ended up travelling quite a bit, exploring a new part of California this time. I hadn’t ever visited either San Diego – the relaxed seaside resort town of California – or the Joshua Tree National Park – famous for the Joshua trees - before. And was pleasantly surprised to see how gorgeous and diverse these places were.

We started our holiday with a week in San Diego and around. Our itinerary was as follows:
Day 1: Explore La Jolla shore and coves
Day 2: Visit Balboa Park, Embarcadero and Gaslamp quarter in San Diego downtown
Day 3: Walk from Torrey Pines beach to Del Mar and back
Day 4: Run in Mission Bay park and explore Little Italy in San Diego downtown
Day 5: Hike in Mt Laguna/Anza Borega desert park
Day 6: Explore Balboa park

Getting there

My flight to the US flew over Greenland. Somehow I decided to look outside the window at one point and was blown away by the view of the island below, the entire place covered with ice. I even saw some ice carve into icebergs from the edges. And then suddenly the sun came out, the whole place looked so magical from the top. I then landed in San Francisco where the queues were too long. (Travel feels so much more exhausting since Covid somehow).

Drive to San Diego

Our trip started in San Francisco where I landed from Amsterdam. And from there we started our long full day drive to get to San Diego. At one point, we drove 300 miles straight on the same highway, without a turn or an exit! The landscape was sometimes boring and sometimes interesting. The exciting parts of the drive were the picturesque views with lush green grass, small hills around and some waterbodies here and there. It almost felt like Switzerland. There were many agricultural areas on the way too. We also drove by a beautiful valley near the Bay. There were some impressive huge houses on top of those hills too - Californians sure love to live big!
 
Drive to SoCal
And between those hills and our highway were farms, lots of them. Some farms had orange plantations, others had dry fruits plants. And there were loads of cattle everywhere. And sometimes it was just yellow flowers covering the whole valley, till wherever the eyes could see. And wherever in the world there is agriculture, Sikhs are present 😊. We drove through one such valley which was full of large Khalsa and Singh farms all along the highway. The service station we stopped at there also sold Indian snacks - gulabjamun, amla murabba, aloo bhujia and many other such things. It was quite a pleasant surprise to see so much Indian food stuff in the middle of nowhere and we stocked up big time there.

Then we got to some dry areas where there were many posters put up all along the road, asking for more water for the farmers. Apparently in recent times, due to water shortages, farmers had been asked to cut down on their usage, and these boards were a sign of protest against those moves. And then we passed some small scale industrial areas, which were full of oil wells, warehouses and windmills. This was definitely the boring part.

Soon, we crossed some mountains covered with snow, and finally we reached the South California (known as So-cal) life. We drove past Los Angeles which just felt like an unending expanse of lights, crowded and bright, full of vehicles and traffic jams. It was good to avoid this part, and as we got closer to San Diego, it was still just one whole long populated and lighted place all along the highway. But surely calmer and more spaced out than LA.


San Diego

San Diego is quite a spread out town, all along the sea coast, lined with hills all along. A lot of the houses, especially holiday homes are perched on top of these hills and cliffs with some breathtaking views of the sea beyond. The town felt different, it had been a part of Mexico for a long time. So it was an older place with some interesting Spanish history, as compared to other parts of the US. It is on the border of US and Mexico, and apparently has the second busiest border in the US. Lot of people live on the Mexico side and work in San Diego. And of course it has lots of beaches and related activities too. The city overall had a very relaxed feel to it, probably because of the many beaches around.

Weather is the highlight of San Diego. It has a nice temperate weather all year round. And the winters are supposed to be moderate, with highs of 19 degrees. Last year though, December turned out to be much colder, around 15 degrees. It rained a few days too, though some days were still sunny and warm (one of the main reasons I flew all the way from Europe to US😉).

Sunset from our airbnb
We were staying in an apartment on Golden Hill. It was an ok area, with some parts more gentrified than the others. We could see the sea from our window and saw some glorious sunsets in the evenings. At night too, the area looked nice, with all the lights around and the downtown lights down below all switched on.


Balboa park, Embarcadero, Gaslamp quarter and Little Italy in San Diego downtown

Balboa park was a few minutes walking from our airbnb, so we tried exploring it. It was huge, but not so friendly for walking as it had more roads than trails. So we just walked around the roads a bit and came back soon. It has a few places of interest within it but one would have to drive to those places, so we didn’t explore more. One day when I went running in the park, I did find some walking trails but in the end had to run in a Golf course to finish my run. (It’s at times like these you realise how much European cities are setup around walking about, while US cities are not).

One of the days, we walked towards downtown and it was a mixed experience. There were some very nice areas on the way, and some quite the opposite. We had to walk through a few not-so-great areas, where there were lots of homeless people and lot of litter. The city also lacked character and it wasn’t as fun to walk as expected. But it was all so open and green, everywhere, so that was a plus.

Embarcadero waterfront
After the walk, we reached the Embarcadero waterfront and it was splendid. A long pathway all along the sea, lined with ships, yachts and boats on the one side. And hotels, open air concert spaces, shops and restaurants, the Seaport village and loads of small parks on the other side. We did our regular run there and it was fun to look around while exercising. We stopped for a meal at Seaport village and it felt fun (quite European actually 😉). We walked a bit further and passed by a huge USS ship on the way. It started raining suddenly though and we had to make a dash to our airbnb. Surprisingly, Uber was very cheap here compared to other cities, even in the US.

Little Italy on New Years
One other day, we went into downtown, to Little Italy (which is actually located on India street). It was tough to get parking as everyone was out that day (though the pandemic was still going on). The Little Italy street was lined with restaurants, all with outside seating. It was very very lively there. And they even had heaters outside even when the temperature was just 16 degrees! We had an Italian dinner there and walked around a bit, enjoying the vibe of the place. The area was well lighted for the festive season. But the food felt quite far from authentic Italian food though.


La Jolla shores and coves

La Jolla shores
One of our first days in San Diego, we drove to the La Jolla area which looked like a nice resort kind of place just outside of San Diego. The La Jolla shores was quite a scenic beach and everyone was kayaking and surfing there, in wetsuits though as the water was still cold. We walked on the beach for a while as I took in the warmth of the sun, after the cold fall months in Europe. We had lunch at Storehouse café, the area around it was full of restaurants and people. It felt such a welcome change from the lockdown I was just flying from.

Cliffs of La Jolla coves
We then walked all the way to the La Jolla coves, along the cliffs. The walk was along the luxurious huge houses on the cliffs overlooking the sea. You could see these were the holiday homes of the rich of California, just from the location and size of houses. The vegetation there was also different, with a lot of scrubs and shrubs. Somehow it reminded me of South Africa, both with the vegetation and the huge houses on the cliff. The weather kept shifting though, from sun to rain the whole time.

Sea lions at La Jolla coves
Once we got to the coves, the place was full of tourists. As we kept walking along the sea shore, we walked past herds of sea lions, seals and pelicans, all of whom have made this area their home. They were just lying on the rocks along the sea, sunning themselves and lazing around, while the tourists all around were coo-ing and caa-ing looking at them (while also trying to get too close to them). It was quite interesting to see so much wildlife so near the high-rise hotels and other accommodation on the seaside.

La Jolla cliffs
The area was full of people. And restaurants. It felt so much like a resort area for the rich. We hung out around the coves for a bit, then walked back to the beach. It soon got rainier, so we called it a day and drove back to San Diego. One other place we could have gone to nearby was to drive to Mt. Soledad, for apparently breathtaking, 360-degree views of San Diego but maybe that’s for next time.


Torrey Pines park

Restaurant on the Torrey Pines beach
One of the days, we drove to the Torrey Pines park which has some nice trails around. It had been raining for a few days, so it turned out that all the trails were still closed even though it wasn’t raining that day. So we just walked on the beach all the way to the next El Mar town. The whole beach was lined with tons of beach houses. And there were many birds along the water, notable among them were the local terns. It was cloudy and rainy all the way. And when it started raining in between, we stopped for lunch at the Jakes restaurant. 

Sailors at Torrey pines beach
After the break we walked till the end of the beach and then walked all the way back. The sky was still full of clouds but the sun came out for a bit, and we saw a magnificent sunset that day along the beach. And we also saw some people who had been surfing or sailing come back at the end of the day, while it was still raining.
 
Sunset at Torrey Pines beach
We really enjoyed this day, and even though simple, it had turned out to be quite a magical one, especially with the sunset and its reflections. And we got to do a bit of a hike anyways, as we still ended up walking 12 kms to and back. But of course, the park trails are still left, to be trekked some other day.


Mission Bay

Mission bay
On one of the rare sunny days during the week, we just went to the Mission Bay park which is a huge park all along the sea. We did a nice long 5kms run along the sea. It was a good place to walk, run or just spend a nice picnic day out. It also has a few lakes around and tons of picnic places. It seemed like a good place to hangout. There are two other islands in front of Mission Bay - sea world and fiesta island. We went to the Fiesta one, it was completely empty and we saw some people cycling there. But Mission Bay felt like a more active island, with some sea world etc. We didn't explore the islands much though


Mt Laguna park

On the new year, it turned out to be a warm sunny day in San Diego. So we chose that day to go for a hike to the nearby Mt Laguna Park. We drove there in the morning, passing through some small but gorgeous towns, all in the hills, offering a grand panoramic view all around. As we got closer to the park, we ran into fog. And once we entered the park, we were shocked to see snow! 

It was totally unexpected. There was snow all around, at least 1-2 feet everywhere. Most of the open grounds were covered in white. And the trees too. There were some wooden houses along the road, plus a lot of restaurants and other activity places too. There were loads of people around too, enjoying snow fights in the snow, sledding etc.. It seemed like this was quite a popular tourist spot and we had no idea what to expect.

That’s when we realised that the park was at a height of 4000ft and hence colder than San Diego. It felt a bit stupid that we had come here looking for a hike in the sun, without checking the weather at all! Anyways, we kept driving through the park and it kept getting colder and snowier. We stopped at a few viewpoints and finally got down at the start of the Mount Garnet trek. 
 
Cold and foggy on the trek
Even though it was cold, we thought we might as well do the trek, as it was a short one. We didn't really know the route, but started anyways following what looked to us like a trail. The path was there, though not well marked. We didn't know where we were going, but just kept walking, encouraged by people coming down, that it was worth it. But it was quite a rough one given how cold and windy it had become. It was extremely cold at 0° temperature, foggy, very windy and wet, as the fog and the wind were hitting across our clothes, making them wet. Walking was tough all through the trek due to the strong winds, as it felt like we would fly off.

Anza Borega desert view
The vegetation was all scrubland, everywhere we could see. At a viewpoint on the trail, we got our first view of the desert beyond - Anza Borega - which was sunny and bright. It looked quite the opposite of the conditions we were trekking in. It was also the last of that view from the trek. The last 10 mins of the hike were extremely steep and rocky. But somehow we made it to the peak. It was supposed to have a panoramic view of the Anza desert, but we didn’t see the desert below as it was completely fogged out. The peak was still nice though, with a lot of beautiful rocks strewn all around.

We would have stayed longer but it was too cold to be there. So slowly we walked back and then warmed ourselves in the car. We had finished the trek of about 6 kms in about 2 hours. And even though it had only been 2 hours, we were quite cold and tired due to the wind. So it took us a while to get back to normal. Still overall, we enjoyed the trail especially the fresh mountain air whispering through the pines. 

The drive back to San Diego was again foggy all the way. We couldn’t see anything till we got over a mountain pass and the weather cleared up only as we got to San Diego. And such was the first day of the new year spent by us 😕.


The whole stay in San Diego was fun, with lots to do. I could see how it would be a nice place to spend time in, with lots to do. And there’s a lot more to explore around, like visiting some of the other beaches, the old city, hiking in the nearby national parks or doing one of the picturesque drives along the coast. But as I always end every post with, to the next time😊.

Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Moving to Amsterdam, first impressions


Other Amsterdam blogs


(I had initially planned to write this blog after just a month in Amsterdam (so in July 2021) but am writing it almost after a year. So obviously these are no more first impressions, but still initial impressions)

My first view of Central Amsterdam,
in summer
As I moved to Netherlands in the middle of the pandemic, getting to know the city took time. But it was quite an exciting journey for me, discovering a new city, a new culture and a new people while limited by the pandemic rules. Let me start with two statements. One, I love Amsterdam (or at least in summer😊). It’s a gorgeous and a crazy city. Or town I must say (it has less than a million people!). It’s small and cosy, and it is extremely easy to get anywhere in town within 20 mins of cycling. And within 10 mins, you can be in the countryside next to canals and cows and farmlands and so on, as there is a lot of nature nearby. And in either direction, North. South or anywhere - very quickly you are in the midst of rural life. The city is extremely pretty. And so chill! It’s like having the best of both worlds, small town life with all benefits of a large city.

Second, unlike my initial expectations, there was a lot that was different about Netherlands than the UK. Some of these differences came as a surprise to me while most of them came with a laugh. I don’t know why, I thought most European countries would be more similar than dissimilar. But that is not the case as I slowly learnt. I've finally come to the conclusion that even though Netherlands is a small country, the Dutch are quite a different kind of people. They have their very own culture different from their neighbours, and with a lot of unique quirks. And so it has been quite an interesting journey to find out about these differences.


The gorgeous Centrum canals, in fall
The city is gorgeous, and its beauty grows on you even more with time (instead of feeling like the same old). It is stunning across all the seasons, as you can see in the photographs on this blog. During my first month in Amsterdam, I lived in the central canal area called Centrum and walked around a lot during this time. I was blown away by the gorgeousness of the historic centre - criss-crossed by canals, lined with green trees on both sides, the narrow streets full of cyclists, and the towering old style colourful Dutch buildings on both sides. It was a pleasure to walk through this area, again and again.

Tree lined Centrum canals,
in summer
Some streets felt full of tourists and busy. And then suddenly you would come across a street completely empty and extremely charming. With its own canal, trees and flowers along it and not a soul to be seen. And just like that, you could be cycling along a zoo in the middle of the city, with flamingos along the road. These were always fun to explore. Amsterdam never fails to surprise me, there is always something new to discover around the corner. And so I still feel the same excitement about Amsterdam’s beauty today as I did when I first moved here.

Amsterdam at night, in winter
Amsterdam has many canals – wide and narrow, flowing and stagnant, and so on. Apparently, all the canals have their own character and story, but it takes time to figure that out. Some of them have houseboats lined along them where people live for the real Amsterdam experience. Some of them are lined with boats which people use when its sunny. Most of them are lined with trees and lot of them bloom with tulips during spring. I still can’t distinguish the canals from each other but will get there one day.

Canal bridges, in summer
And there are thousands of cute bridges everywhere. Different styles and all stunning. Some are even lighted at night. Most of them are also lined with flowers during spring and summer. Also at times you run into brightly painted cycles on these bridges decorated with flowers, for tourists to take photographs with. Each one of the bridges is a pleasure to walk along and always fun to discover. Apparently, Amsterdam was a sea port for a long time, but after they built the dykes, the sea became the lake or a river Ij (there is confusion over what its called), towards the north of Amsterdam. But even now, some of the ships come all the way to the Amsterdam port. And some of the bridges even open up to let large boats through.

Trader houses, in summer
The old 14-15th century trader houses all along the canals also lend it a lot of beauty. The slim tall colourfully painted houses with huge windows just add so much charm to the views. And most of the windows are always open, so you can get to see quite a lot of what is inside (Apparently that’s an Amsterdam thing 😉). Also, after a while you start to notice how many of these buildings are tilted. Quite a lot! They are all leaning one way or the other, and lot of them have blocks now to keep them from falling over.

All these old Dutch houses are painted in different bright colours which is one of the biggest reasons for the beauty of the old city. They also have their own unique architecture - narrow floors, with narrow winding staircases to go up. And some weird setups inside too as they were modernised much later. Like walking through a bathroom to get to the bedroom, having sinks in the bedroom and so on. Some of them also have sloping walls inside because of the leaning walls. They are always a pleasure to explore.

Unlike other European capitals, Amsterdam does not have a lot of grand stone buildings. Only a few that you can count on your fingers. Like the Centraal Station, Rijksmuseum, Royal Palace and a few others. The rest are just the trader canal houses. And this is also a Dutch thing – trying not to be too much of a show-off. This shows in its buildings, architecture as well as its people - as a country, they are not focussed on show of wealth at all.

Quieter streets in Pijp
The different parts of the city all have a very different feel to it. Centrum is stunning but always crowded with tourists. So it’s avoided by the locals as much as possible. But it’s definitely the most gorgeous part of the city. (Btw its beauty can best be appreciated on Sunday mornings when the whole city and its tourists are sleeping. I have cycled and walked so often around town on Sunday mornings, its fabulous). Jordaan in Centrum sometimes is quieter and fun to walk around. Outside the Centrum, Pijp is full of restaurants and has quite an active vibe plus is a lot more spaced out. It is quite a popular place with the locals. The east felt more industrial and modern in its buildings. The west has a more edgy feeling. And the north is being developed now, it felt emptier than the rest of Amsterdam. It feels more industrial, as well as has lots of highrises. But it is still not easily accessible as taking the ferry from Central is the best way to get there, and takes quite a bit of time. 

Street in Zuid
The South (Zuid) is more suburban living. It has the Apollobuurt and Riverenbuurt which are fully residential and have huge wide roads and parks around to give it a homely feeling. And they also have their own tree lined canals within them which make them feel as charming as the rest of Amsterdam.

Zuid canal, in fall
I walked through the Zuid area when I had got out for the first time in Amsterdam to get a covid test and fell in love with the area. I walked through Beatrixpark that day and I felt I had come out to the countryside, had left the city, the crowded Amsterdam behind. It had been such a great experience in the park. Who knew I would finally end up living there itself 😊.

Noord Amsterdam, in summer
Amsterdam is quite small (as compared to London), and the advantage of living here is that you can have a suburban life, with quiet and peace while being very close to the city. Like the Zuid and North Amsterdam area which felt suburban, while being just 15 mins cycling from the city. And these parts of the city are what the tourists never get to see as they always tend to stay within the Centrum. What a miss.

Zuid street in fall
Amsterdam has a predominantly windy, cloudy and rainy weather. Being near the sea, Amsterdam is never very warm (or at least I feel so). The winds which mostly come from the north sea side bring the temperature down from what it shows on the apps. So when the sun does shine (which it did a lot in June 21), all of Amsterdam is out! And half of them are on the boats in the canals, with their friends, just sitting in the sun, tanning themselves, listening to music and having a beer. And lots of them also take to kayaking or paddle surfing or stand-up paddle or other such activities in the water.

It was quite impressive to see people being able to do so much right in the centre of the city. All of summer, starting from early mornings, every day of the week, including weekdays! They definitely make the most of the few sunny days of the year, and being in the water is definitely the most popular way. I also saw some children living in the houseboats jumping into the canal every time a boat passed by, to splash water on them! It was funny to watch. And must have been even more fun for them. (In my first month, I was so impressed with all the boats, I almost wanted to buy a boat, even before finding a house for myself 😉).

Fall colours
Amsterdam has all the four seasons, and looks different in all of them. Summer is warm and green everywhere. In fall, it has the fall colours and looks spectacular. Especially all its parks. Winter is dark and gloomy, with bare trees everywhere. And then it totally sparkles in spring again, with flowers springing up everywhere. I don’t remember when have I ever noticed all the four seasons in a year, like I did in Amsterdam.

The whole vibe of Amsterdam is very chilled. No grand buildings, not too much of a show-off. And so are the Dutch. Everyone cycles everywhere. So everyone is dressed up to cycle, not really “dressed up” much for anything else, which gives everything a very relaxed vibe to it. And high heels are a no-no, as they just don’t work well with cycles and all the walking around.

The culture is quite open and forward looking. So people are quite chill about most things, and no one is bothered by what others are doing. There is also very less judgement of what others are doing and less poshness about what they are doing, unlike the UK. It’s quite ok to just be yourself and unposh. Not sure if I am explaining it the right way but people just do what they want, like take chairs and put it outside their doors on the street to enjoy the sun. No one cares how it looks. And that's very different from the UK where being proper is more common.

The downside of this though is that people are quite individualistic here, and much less considerate of others (again unlike the UK). There is a lesser sense of fair play, and I notice it most around how cyclists ride the bikes around the city. With total disregard for anyone other than themselves, flouting all rules to get ahead (It felt like only expats and tourists were following cycling rules!). As well as drivers, trying to get ahead as much as they can. Unlike UK where there is more consideration for other’s comfort and convenience, and queues are so sacrosanct, I find that care and consideration missing here. The neighbours still talk to each other and help out more though, which is different than in the UK. And quite a welcome difference.

Cycling in the local forest, the Bos
 during winter
The focus on work life balance in Netherlands is unlike anything I have seen anywhere else before. There is a lot more acceptability of doing personal errands during the weekdays. Or of taking it easy when the weather is good. It somehow feels like work is an option most people “are choosing to exercise”, it’s not really a need😉. Talking about exercise, the Dutch are so active, its impressive. Everyone is always exercising it looks like! Running, boating, doing water activities and so on. It has inspired me to start exercising a lot more too.

Things can be quite bureaucratic in Netherlands especially with processes linked to the government. You must register at multiple places before you can start living here. And submit so many documents, it feels like there is no privacy possible from the government. There is too much paperwork involved for the first few months, really too much. There are also too many rules everywhere and they are followed to the T even if they don’t make sense. Which is a bit of a surprise as the Dutch don’t believe in following many rules themselves😊. I saw this everywhere, around driving, cycling, lockdown rules etc.. So I guess all the roles are mostly for the expats!

Almost everyone speaks English, so that is helpful if you are an expat. And the best part is, they are open to speaking in English (unlike the French!). That being said, Dutch is still the official language, and all written and automated communication is still in Dutch. For example, local and government websites, local apps, emails from utilities, housing contracts, packaging and instructions on everything in the supermarkets, road signs, letters from the government and so on are all in Dutch. So it is not easy to get by without knowing Dutch thought definitely possible. (I must say though, kudos to Google translate for having developed such an awesome app – it is a life safer, really!)

There are some other typical Dutch characteristics that I can vouch for, and some not. The Dutch are supposed to be direct, but I don’t believe it. In my experience, I haven’t seen everyone always say what they really mean. Though they do love to complain, so then of course it’s all communicated directly. And going Dutch is really a thing😊. They do love to split the bill, accurately! And for that, they have their very own Dutch app, called Tikki. Which can do the splitting and transfer of money extremely conveniently. And the last thing, they really do eat early dinners. Like at 6pm. This is followed quite commonly and is something I find tougher to get used to.

Vondelpark in spring
Cycling and cyclists are quite the soul of Amsterdam. Everyone cycles. Everywhere. All the time. There are separate paths for cyclists, on both sides of the road. Sometimes wider than the car roads even😊. And there are separate traffic lights for cyclists – the whole infrastructure is setup to provide enough space and convenience to being a cyclist. A lot of people buy bakfiets, which are special cycles with space in front for children to sit. As a lot of parents pick and drop their children in those family cycles. That is a scene I haven’t seen much earlier. Also the cyclists in Amsterdam don’t wear helmets as its not considered the norm or needed to wear one. Which is found quite suprising. Overall cycling is quite convenient in the city.

Cycling in the countryside,
10 mins from Amsterdam
Can’t say the same about cyclists though. They apparently own the roads in Netherlands but are not a nice bunch I must say. They are the ones to be most careful of on the roads, not the cars. If a pedestrian is on the cycling path, be prepared to be told off quite rudely. Cyclists themselves though don’t follow a lot of the rules – like stopping for red lights, only sticking to the cycling lanes and so on. Also overtaking and trying to get ahead is quite common. And racers are quite aggressive with city bikers especially when in the countryside. I really find this behaviour quite bothersome, and so different from the UK. This isn’t something that I will get used to soon, I think. And would be nice if this was a bit different too.

Also given how safe the city is, one kind of crime is quite rampant - cycle theft. Locals suggest buying cheap bikes but spend 3 times that amount on buying strong locks! Cycles are stolen so regularly, that it’s not even reported to the police. And lot of them find their way into the canals, wonder how. So people buy multiple bikes. Cheaper city bikes for biking in the city which can be parked anywhere, and more expensive ones for longer range cycling which are kept safely inside.

The roads especially in the Centrum are quite narrow but support different means of transport - trams, cars, pedestrians, covered "scooters" (they look like half cars) and cyclists (along with boats in the canals), with the cyclists ruling the road and being the most aggressive. Driving on the centrum roads is something I still haven’t tried; it feels so daunting. But one day surely, I will try it.

The Rijksmuseum, in spring
Summer is a popular time for lots of events to happen in Amsterdam. Everyone is out in the boats enjoying the sun. Or sitting at terraces (it’s a name for restaurants which have outside sitting). To be honest, terraces are just restaurants keeping chairs outside on the pavement or next to the canals, right on the road with cyclists and cars moving next to them. But still its something everyone enjoys a lot. Something unique that I saw here was that lot of people just take their chairs and tables and keep them outside their doors on the pavement, sitting there and just enjoying the sun. They really don’t have any hesitation in doing something like this. I love that!

In addition, during summer there are loads of festivals happening all over the country. Last year they didn’t take place given the lockdown, but apparently they are quite a highlight in the calendar. But there are smaller events happening within Amsterdam too during summer. One day, I saw a theatre performance happening inside a shop window on the street, with people standing outside and watching it. And another day, some children were dancing to Spanish music in a restaurant on one of the sunny afternoons. Basically in summer, anything goes 😊.

In the first few months in Amsterdam, there were some more interesting quirks I noticed around me. Which made me laugh, or say 'are you kidding me?' Am listing a few here:
  • Bank accounts in Netherlands are not free, plus they pay 0 interest. And if you have cash beyond a certain amount in your account, you need to pay an interest rate to the bank! Plus there are no free bank accounts, credit cards etc.. You need to pay for everything, which is a first for me.
  • Also supermarkets and smaller shops in Netherlands only accept local Maestro cards; global cards like Visa and Mastercard are not accepted (in this day and age!). So as convenient the payment system is, it works well only if you are a resident of the country.
  • Taxes are super high in Netherlands. Still I was surprised to know that healthcare is not free in the country. You must buy expensive insurance even after paying all the taxes, to take care of your health. So it’s not as all like in the UK where you have the NHS for free.
  • Apparently the Dutch are one of the most heavily insured countries. There is insurance for everything and anything. And people actually buy all those types of insurances, especially the third-party liability one. Everyone told me to definitely buy that. It protects you from things like if you visit someone and drop drinks on the carpet or couch, just exchange the insurance numbers and you are done!
  • Netherlands has been an open minded country from the beginning, preferring the republic to monarchy, and being independent often. And apparently for Amsterdam trade has been the biggest religion forever, not really real religion. Also supposedly nationalism is low in NL but I didn't feel that. I think the Dutch are quite proud of their country.
  • Processes in Netherlands are quite bureaucratic. I don't even remember the number of times, I had to fill up forms for so many things or filled the wrong form because there were multiple versions of the same form online, or had to call multiple numbers to get some information. Things were not clear a lot of times, and a different person on the government customer care line would give a different answer than another one! I found it quite surprising to be honest to see how things work here sometimes.
  • Finding good housing (rental or sale) is extremely tough in Amsterdam. Prices have been skyrocketing for a few years now, mostly driven by expats. Places are bid for and go 20-30% above the bid price. And this is when a lot of the houses in central are so small, stuffy and old. They have narrow staircases, less space and so on. Its tough to find good houses in Amsterdam. But they still go at a high price! It’s a supply demand problem at a completely different level to what I have seen elsewhere.
  • There was no lockdown in Netherlands during the first wave. And even during the second wave, all there was, was a night curfew which led to serious rioting as the Dutch thought this was like taking away their freedom. Most people were not wearing masks even in 2021 summer, and just did not care. This laxness felt very different from London for sure 
  • Even though for tourists, Amsterdam stands for weed and red-light areas, the locals don’t talk about it much. Like at all. Maybe because it’s just there and been there always, its lost any of its appeal.
  • There are multiple red-light streets in the city. While walking on a normal street, you can suddenly come across a few red lined windows, and then back to restaurants with people sitting outside in the sun and enjoying a nice brunch. It was quite jarring to see how streets change so quickly.
  • Netherlands is not a religious country anymore, lot of people are atheists. So a lot of the grand churches in the city have been turned into non-religious places. In fact, the two biggest churches in Amsterdam, Oudekerk and Nieuwekerk have now been transformed into exhibition venues.
  • There are loads of museums in the city – the Dutch love their museums a lot. There must be 100s of them, big and small in the city. But these are also tucked away along the streets, and it’s very easy to miss them most of the times.
  • Netherlands has its own types of bikes where the brake is in the pedal!!! A lot of people own those, as do the rentals. I was like, really? Why make them so different?
  • Dutch food doesn’t have a lot of dishes. As the Dutch were primarily farmers for a long time, their food is quite simple. As are their habits and customs, as they were all farmers earlier and led simpler lives.
  • The sun is as revered here as much as in the UK. The days the sun was out, everyone was out (even if it was a weekday). And the Saturday when it was cloudy, everyone was inside 😁).

And so the journey continues for me. Each day is about finding something new, something different about this city. And it’s quite a fun experience. I am very impressed with Amsterdam and enjoy it a lot – it’s a lovely place, with a lot to offer – small town living, relaxed lifestyle and nature close by. Totally a place to live.

Saturday, May 7, 2022

Weekend skiing in Flaine, France


After a 2 – year break due to lockdown, I was able to finally get back to the ski slopes by late winter this year, in the ski resort of Flaine. The resort was small and quite modern (not a typical Alpine ski village), but still a good experience. I think it was getting back on the slopes after two years which felt so amazing, that we didn’t really mind the lack of cosiness at the resort. It was still fun to be back zipping through the snow, and we enjoyed the trip a lot.

Flaine is a small-ish ski resort, near the French Swiss border, about 1.5 hours drive from Geneva. We took a cab from Geneva to get there late at night and were surprised by the lack of snow for most of the drive. Even the last 20 mins through the mountains, where the roads were totally curvy, there still was no snow. The resort is just a collection of loads of high rise modern concrete apartments at the bottom of the ski slopes, and felt quite out of place in the Alps. It also felt like quite a quiet place when we reached, as there wasn’t a lot of activity going on.


Skiing

Mont Blanc ridgeline
The next three days, we just skied across the resort and the connecting valleys. The first gondola we took up got us to a picturesque panoramic view of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in the Alps, along with all its neighbouring peaks. And there were loads of people there just clicking pictures of the mountain.

The weather was sunny and extremely warm that day. And for the rest of the trip too. So it was comfortable to ski, plus all views around of the mountains and the valleys were quite clear and stunning. From the mountains, we could see till far into the valleys, and it was all green. And the last night, it snowed all night but the day still was sunny. So we got to ski on some fresh powder snow, while still enjoying a warm clear day.

Valley views
The slopes were quite nice to ski on too, with more reds than blues or blacks. It was good as it pushed me early on to try the red slopes, which I wouldn’t have done otherwise as I was getting back to skiing after 2 years. The slopes here had names instead of numbers. And two interesting ones were called Satan and Lucifer – these were some of the toughest slopes which though red had huge moghuls. These were the unmade slopes and quite tough to navigate – totally deserving their names.

There were lots of chairs and gondolas everywhere. Plus some really long bum lifts, which I haven’t seen anywhere. They just went on and on, and got quite tiresome. Also unlike some other resorts, all the lifts did not have a blue slope to come down, so we had to be quite careful to go up only the ones which had some easy way of coming down. There weren’t as much crowds as we have experienced on most trips, so we didn’t have to wait a lot for our turn at the lifts either. The restaurants on the slopes had pretty expensive food, even more than usual. Also, the food had limited French options and so wasn’t appetising either.

The first day, we stayed on the Flaine slopes. The second day, I went the other side towards Moulins. And there was lot of good skiing there. We could also see a lot more villages (with no snow) in the valleys there. But the last run of the day, when I was coming back to Flaine was the worst of the whole day. Though it was a blue run (tourmaline), it was just soooo full of moghuls, that I kept falling all the way back. It was quite a nightmare run, but somehow I was able to make it to the bottom. Other than the last run though, the rest of the day was quite a lot of fun.

And the last day we got some fresh snow but it turned out to be tougher to ski on the unmade slopes in the morning than we expected☹. The weather was again gorgeous though – lot of sun, so it was fun to ski. I had done a red slope the previous day, lapiz which had been an amazing run, smooth like a breeze. And today, it turned out to be a nightmare, it almost felt like I was skiing off-piste, with my skis having to make their way under the fresh snow!

End of cascades - Sixt
In the afternoon, we decided to do the 14 kms cascades run, which was supposedly a scenic ski run through the forests. It was actually quite a nice one, smoothly flying across different mountains and passing through some gorgeous forest scenery all the way till the town of Sixt. But the last 2 kms was a nightmare. It was just an unmade moghuly and slushy narrow slope all the way down till the village. And I think it took us more than 30 mins just to get through it. I fell thrice on this last stretch, and there was no real way of getting through it unscathed!

View of the Samoens valley
Thankfully though, right where the run finishes, there was a restaurant where everyone stopped to recover from the run. Everyone was sitting there in the sun, just enjoying the moment of peace after the moghuly ride. We also sat there a bit just staring at the mountains and getting our sanity back. Then it was a long trek back to where we had started – we took a bus till the village of Samoens and a trolley up the mountain to start skiing again. This valley was pretty and had lot of villages, but it definitely wasn’t as picturesque as the Swiss and Austrians alps. And then we did a few more slopes to come back to Flaine that day. We again went on the blue tourmaline but it was better today and we had lesser falls😊.


The resort

The resort was made up of modern apartment buildings, mostly run by apartment companies. It felt too sanitised, too modern. Also, as soon as you were at the bottom of the slope, there wasn’t a lot of snow in the resort, this winter had been quite a low season. So it definitely didn’t feel like a typical ski resort.

For dinner, we tried new restaurants every day, and though there were a few options, they weren’t really like the cosy ones that you can find in a village kind of ski resort. There was a row of small restaurants near the gondolas. The first day, we went to a small pizza place – Chez Lili - which was so small, it was a surprise how they had guests and the kitchen in the same location. The next day we went to one of the highest rated and most popular restaurant in the area – Les Chimes. And we were shocked by how tasteless the food was, we just couldn’t even finish it! (Note to myself: Stop trying out French cuisine, it doesn’t work for me). So the last day, we just went to a small Spanish place next to the pizza one and had a simple dinner.

But overall, I can say I wasn’t impressed with the food here. Or the French hospitality either. It is something that will never change I guess, though I keep expecting it. Everyone in the restaurants, at the information centre and so on has too much attitude. And just does not want to help you. We read, hear and experience it all the time, but every time its just such a surprise that French service can be so bad.

I guess all in all, we had a nice time skiing here, though I wouldn’t rate Flaine as one of the places I would like to go back to. I just missed the cosiness and activity of a ski village – I realised on this trip that that experience is also so much a part of skiing. But anyways, I was very happy to be back on the slopes again, and thats what counts😊.