Scandinavian driving trip (4): Stavanger and around (Norway)

Itinerary (1) 
Netherlands to Sweden (2)
Bergen and around in Norway (3)

Pulpit rock

After Bergen, we moved towards Stavanger and spent our last few days in Norway exploring the countryside around. The highlight of this part of our travels was the stay in the absolutely wonderful island of Mosteroy, as well as the hike up Pulpit Rock and the grand views overlooking Lysefjord. After all that, leaving Norway was tough, and the drive back was the most boring two days of our trip.


Day 10: Drive from Bergen to Stavanger (Mosteroy island) (4.5h), with stop at Haugesund

Today we left Bergen and started driving towards Stavanger, our next stop. Most of the drive was along the fjords, and coastal islands of Norway, jumping from one island to another either through bridges or on ferries. The islands were mostly green and uninhabited. And the drive when on land was through stunning valleys and green hills.

The ferry crossings were extremely scenic too. And the boarding and departure so seamless. You drive to the seafront, drive on when the ferry docks, park on the ferry and get off for a bit, go up the deck to check out the views around, get back to your car as soon as you hear the announcement and drive off as soon as the ferry reaches the destination. And then repeat again. It was so seamless, it felt like the ferries were part of the road route itself (which is how it was intended).

And from the ferry, the views of the islands and the sea around were magnificent. The air was crisp, the wind so refreshing and the surroundings ethereal. And the sunny day made the journey even more pleasant. It was interesting to see how the ferry part of the travel was also fun. 

Haugesund waterfront

On the route to Stavanger, we had only one stop, in the town of Haugesund. It was a lovely sweet little town along the sea. We parked our car and walked to the waterfront. It all seemed very serene and calm. Then we walked on a bridge to the other side of the water, towards the sea. And we saw huge crowds getting off from the cruises. Suddenly the town became more busy than expected as it was on the Norway cruise route! So we hurried back to the waterfront, to eat before the crowds booked out everything 😅.

Haugesund waterfront

There were a row of restaurants all along the waterfront. We ate Indian food there, at India Gate, and chatted with the owner, who was again from Punjab. We walked around town and the buildings around looked so pretty and charming. Then we walked to the city centre, towards the market, and were quite impressed - there was a lot of nice stuff there. Probably because the cruises stopped here, they had a huge clientele to sell to. The market was also so lively, with street artists playing music and so many people hanging around - a typical summer day in the Nordics. But it got quite hot by early afternoon, so we left for Stavanger soon.

Overall, the roads of Norway were impressive. Most of the roads were single lane and very few double laned roads. So using the autopilot on the Tesla was tough. I noticed that the Norwegians generally drove faster than the speed limit on the highways. That was unexpected.Also the roads around the fjords and mountains were full of tunnels, and quite long ones. Being in 5-10 km long tunnels was so common here. Apparently Norway has the third-longest road tunnel network in the world. Whenever crossing over from one island to another or driving under the mountains, more often than not, we encountered one. It was interesting that sometimes you would just enter a mountain and come out to a very different place on the other side. Or be on an island, and then suddenly on another one without having seen water!

We kept marvelling at the length of these tunnels and how difficult they would have been to construct. A lot of the tunnels had an unfinished look to them, with rocks jutting out from the sides. And that day we drove through a tunnel which had a roundabout, inside the tunnel! That was something we hadn't seen yet. Everything about the tunnels was impressive. They even had very bright lights inside, towards the end of the tunnel, to help drivers’ eyes adjust gradually to daylight after the long darkness inside. It's as if they had thought of everything and mastered the science of making tunnels. 

Our Airbnb

In Stavanger, we were staying in an airbnb holiday home on a nearby island called Mosteroy. Towards the end of our journey, we took a ferry to get quickly to Mosteroy, as otherwise the drive would have been much longer. We reached early this time, before sunset, so we could admire our home for the next few days. And boy, was it some abode! Mosteroy was a small green island, surrounded by sea on all sides. And on the island, were farms, farmhouses, boathouses and some luxury holiday homes. We were staying at one such place, a wooden house with 3 floors, a garden, a hot tub and outside sitting areas on every level. With spectacular views of the sea and islands surrounding Mosteroy.

Mosteroy island

We settled in the apartment and enjoyed watching the sun go down from our living room. It was lovely. And after dinner, we went out for a short walk to the waterfront, walking past the boats moored along the boathouse. It was all so natural, so gorgeous, so amazing. Wow, even remembering this scene gives me joy again.  


Day 11: Stavanger and Mosteroy

View from our Airbnb

We spent half of the next day indoors and within Mosteroy as it was raining. In the morning, I went mountain biking around the island and was amazed by its scenic beauty. The island was green, and all around you could see the nearby islands, bridges leading to those islands and the roads connecting them all. And on Mosteroy, we could see villages and farms and farm horses on land, and boats and boathouses on the waterfront everywhere. There were many clusters of holiday homes and communities dotting the island too.

In the afternoon, we drove to Stavanger and explored it all evening. It was cute, though not as impressive as Bergen. Also it started raining soon, so our experience was affected. We first walked to the Fargegaten area, the city centre with colourful shops everywhere. It was right next to the waterfront which is the most active part of town. The market area was full of colourful shops and alive with people. We walked up to the Valberg tower which had a good view of the town below. This side of town was full of bright coloured buildings everywhere.

Fargegaten city centre

Stavanger waterfront

Gamle street

Then we walked to the other side of town, to the white Gamle Stavanger area (also known as Straen), an old historic charming street in white. It is a pedestrian street, with about 200 wooden houses, all painted white with orange roofs. They are all so tastefully decorated, with colourful flowers and other decorations. Walking there was so much fun. The street looked so postcard-perfect, with all the summer flowers in full bloom. It was like we were walking through a painting. And though a tourist experience, it was still enjoyable.

Then we attended a live concert on the waterfront, where a band of four women were performing. It was fun as they were singing some well know pop songs and against such a stunning background - with the waterfront, all the shops and daylight even at 8pm! There were a few museums around town too. But it felt less active than Bergen. Also, as it started raining soon, after the short town tour, we headed back quickly to our island.


Day 12: Hike up to the Preikostolen (Pulpit rock)

Today was a day reserved for hiking up to the Preikostolen (the Pulpit Rock), one of the 3 famous hikes of Norway (the other two being Trolltunga and Kjeragbolten). So we drove about 40 kms, to the start of the Pulpit rock hike on Strand island. The drive there was mostly through tunnels, one of which was a 12 kms one. Apparently, it is one of the world’s longest sub-sea tunnels, running under the fjord, between the islands.

Views on the hike

Strand island was gorgeous. And we got some very majestic views of the fjords from the island. The rain had stopped and the sun soon came out too, which made everything even more stunning. We parked our car inside the Preikestolen Basecamp. It was quite crowded there with many other activities options other than hiking. Like canoeing, swimming, and ziplining. We though had come for the hike, and did just that. We walked around 8 kms in about 5 hours. Overall, it was not too strenuous a hike. And gave us enough time to stop and enjoy the views on the way.

Pathways on the hike

Most of the route was rocky, but well maintained. At places where it was boggy, there were wooden pathways. And places where it was steep, steps had been made to make it easier to walk. There was a stretch in between where we climbed nearly 300m within just 600 meters of the hike. This steep part was quite scary. Also the pathways for some of these steepest parts of the hike have been built by sherpas from Nepal. And even though the hike was tough, we saw so many children going up, and many people were carrying their babies on the hike! So I guess it's not considered an unsafe or difficult hike at all. Overall the walk was fun, with some awe-inspiring panoramic views all around.

Bogs on the hike

Steep pathways

Lysefjord from the top

And of course the feeling of being on the Rock was exhilarating. Once on the top, you can see the Lysefjords all the way below. And for hundreds of kms on both sides. The grandness of the sight is beyond explanation. Being there feels like you on top of the world, but also one with nature. We were there at the peak for a while, just admiring the scenery around us. You can never spend too much time at a place like this.  

On top of Pulpit Rock

The hike down was of course faster, but as grand. Coming down the steep steps took a bit of time though. The weather got a bit iffy on the hike too, sometimes it started raining, though most of the time it was sunny. In fact we saw all weathers - sunny, rainy, windy, cold - at different times on the 5 hour hike. Surprisingly the trail was not too crowded though we had read a lot about how crazy it gets there. In fact I had heard it sometimes gets tough to even find parking but that didn't happen to us. The drive back was gorgeous too and now we drove through a tunnel with multiple exits within the tunnel! Another something I hadn't seen before.

In the evening, I went cycling around Mosteroy island again. It looked so enchanting in the evening. And this time I cycled along beautiful wooden houses, with a stunning sunset in the background. I also ran into wild deer around the island, a few of them just hanging around as if they did this everyday. It was a very nice end to the day. (Also, I think after this, I had seen all the Nordic wildlife there is to see, mountain goats, deer and fox (spotted earlier in Copenhagen)). And just like that, our Nordic driving trip was coming to an end. So I spent this evening just soaking in all the beauty and serenity it had to offer. As the next day, we would start our long trek back to Amsterdam.

Mosteroy island

Cycling on Mosteroy

Day 13: Drive from Stavanger to Kolding (Denmark) (7h plus 3h on ferry)

We left Stavanger early and drove along the southern Norwegian coast towards Kristiansand, to take a ferry to Denmark. These were going to be our last views of Norway, and I was feeling really sad leaving it. All along the way, the views were spectacular - majestic mountains, rolling green valleys, lakes at every turn, small villages and wooden cabins everywhere. It was just so uplifting to drive through it. And no photographs can capture the beauty of this stunning landscape.

Tesla charging stop at Vilesa

Even the Tesla supercharger we stopped at, at Vilesa, was scenic. We walked across the road, through some stunning grasslands, along some huge bungalows. And enjoyed even this waiting experience so much. And apparently the other side of the Tesla supercharger was a huge lake. It is sometimes so unbelievable how a place could be so stunningly beautiful! It was so tough to leave such a divine place, I just kept thinking the whole time how much I would miss it.

We were to stop at Kristiansand on the way as it is supposed to be a scenic town, but we got stuck in traffic before getting onto the ferry (after not having been stuck in traffic even once in the last 10 days!), so we didn't get a chance to explore the town. And reached the ferry early, ending up waiting 1.5 hours at the boarding gates 😆.

There was also a lot of confusion if a passport was required to board the ferry or not. I was not carrying mine as we were travelling within the Schengen area. But the ferry checkin email mentioned a passport check at boarding. So I called up the local police, the police at Kristiansand, the immigration centre at Kristiansand and of course the ferry company. But not a single person was able to confirm to me whether a passport was required or not. So I got it couriered from the Netherlands, and in the end it turned out it wasn't required 😆.

It was a long 3-hour ferry to Denmark, and we sat in the sun for a while, enjoying the breeze of the Skagerrak Strait. There wasn't a lot to see though, just the vast ocean. But the wind and sun made it relaxing. It also gave us some quiet minutes to say our goodbyes to Norway. Then we landed in Denmark. And once there, the drive felt so boring, Through green plains, with no mountains or lakes to keep you interested, it felt so lacklustre compared to the spectacular landscapes we had left behind. But the roads did get better and wider. And the speed limit increased which helped us drive faster.

Today was going to be a long driving day, so I had just booked a hotel at the last minute in a town on the way to Amsterdam. It was called Kolding. We reached our hotel, the Hotel Kolding very late. It was lovely and convenient. And the perfect night stop on the long drive. I didn't go out but some people in our group did. And said it was a cute little town with a lake and a nice park. And that’s the beauty of Europe - even small places on the way have a charm and beauty of their own.


Day 14: Drive back from Kolding to Amsterdam (9h)

I think this was the most boring day of the trip, either because it was through Germany or because we were coming back and our enthusiasm was down. We left early from Kolding and just drove through simple grasslands in Denmark, green fields in Germany and flatlands of Netherlands to reach Amsterdam quickly. Barely stopping on the way, other than at two Tesla superchargers. And just like that, the trip to Scandinavia was over.


It had been so much fun to experience the Nordics. Exploring the cities, the beaches, the mountains. And everything else in between. It was also so much fun to drive across these vast countries. We drove more than 4500 kms over the two weeks. And I loved Norway the most - the country is just stunning. It's grand and majestic, and a place I can visit again and again. And it took me a long while to get over the hangover from the trip, and forget the gorgeousness that’s Norway. 


Map

Scandinavian driving trip (3): Sweden to Bergen and around (Norway)

Itinerary (1)
Netherlands to Sweden (2)

After taking five days to drive from Amsterdam to Sweden, on our sixth day, we finally entered Norway. We still took 2 days to reach Bergen, our first long stay destination in Norway, but we were already impressed with the stunning-ness of Norway, during our stop at Leveld and the experience in the fjords at Nærøyfjord on the way. The natural beauty of Norway is just magnificent, at every turn, and nothing I write below can capture the freshness and grandness of the place.

Walking up Mt Floyen

The highlights for me on this part of our trip were our stay in the cabin in Leveld, kayaking in Nærøyfjord, the views of Bergen from Mt Floyen and the serenity of Norheimsund lake. 




Day 6: Drive from Gothenburg to Leveld (Norway) (6.5h), with stops at Gothenburg and Oslo

Gothenburg city

In the morning, we spent a few hours exploring Gothenburg. We walked around in the old town, exploring the city centre. We started at the Haga market which was such a lively place, with colourful shops all around. (And interestingly the street next to it was completely empty!). Then we walked by some parks along the canal, lined with some grand buildings. There were also tons of statues everywhere. It was such a pleasant scenic walk, so simple yet pleasing to the eye. I was impressed with the town, and it felt quite picturesque at every turn.

Gothenburg from above

We then drove to the Keillers Park viewpoint nearby, at Ramberget, and we got a panoramic view of the city around. We could see the commercial areas along with the residential areas next to them. The view of the city from above was just average though. Walking through the town was more beautiful.

Gothenburg city

Then we were off to Oslo. The drive today was definitely prettier and more interesting than yesterday. And the whole vibe changed once we entered Norway. More mountains, more lakes, and very refreshing, with the bright green grass and colourful wild flowers all along the road. Our first stop in the country was in the capital, Oslo. And getting in was interesting. We were hoping to drive around town and see how it is, but somehow we landed into a tunnel which took us from the outskirts of town, directly into the city centre, completely skipping the entire city 😆.

Oslo waterfront

We spent most of our time walking around the Aker Brygge and Tjuvholmen areas, the city centre with the pier and waterfront. And we loved it, the vibrant atmosphere there, with the shops and apartments right next to the sea. We had an Indian lunch at New Delhi, which had very tasty food. The owners of the restaurant were from Punjab, so we chatted with them for a while. Then we walked around the pier. It was full of tourists, with people taking cruises into the fjord, which came all the way in to the city centre. The waterfront was lined with boats and ferries. Then we walked inland a bit, and there were a few nice parks around, again with a lot of statues. It was quite a pleasure to walk around town, especially as it was sunny and clear weather. 

And then we were off to our next stop, to a non-descript place on the way, called Leveld. (It is a small village near Ål, in the Hallingdal valley). The drive was stunning, with valleys and lakes, high mountains with wooden cabins, and greenery everywhere the eye could see. There were many camping spots on the way, and the place seemed quite outdoorsy. On the way, we stopped to charge the Tesla and even that spot was mesmerising. It was next to a river, and we took a break, enjoying watching a calm sunset over the gushing river waters. The whole drive was just so enjoyable and refreshing, we could have gone on forever.

Cabin in Leveld

Given our two stops during the day, we reached our accommodation very late, around 11pm. And what a big miss it was! Our airbnb for the night was a small wooden cabin located on a hillside, which overlooked what looked like paradise. I totally loved it, the feel, the views and the feeling of being at a place like that. Green grass in front with red Norwegian houses and farmlands in the valley, till wherever the eyes could see. The owner lived right next door and let us in. It was a place we would have loved to walk around and explore, it was so heavenly. But alas I had booked an early morning activity the next day, and so we had to leave early again ☹️.

Interestingly this was the only accommodation on this trip that I was a bit skeptical about how it would be, as it was a simple wooden cabin in a village, but it turned out to be the most spectacular of all.


Day 7: Drive from Leveld to Bergen (4.5h), with kayaking and cruise at Naeroyfjord

We left Leveld early in the morning and drove towards the fjords. And now that we were in Norway, the views for the next one week were just stunning. The drive that day was delightful. Through mountains and lakes. Small streams everywhere, gushing with water. And the mountains full of wild flowers. Also, we drove through so many tunnels, we were impressed with the road infrastructure of the country. Soon, we entered into fjord country, the west coast of Norway. And after this point, our surroundings got even more breathtaking. In fact, stunning beauty became so omnipresent, it almost became a way of life.

Gudvangen

We drove towards Naeroyfjord which was a bit of a diversion and had many small remote villages all along the fjord. Part of the group were to take an organised ferry in the fjord, from the village of Flam to Gudvangen. And the others were to go kayaking in the fjord, from Gudvangen. We first dropped some of our group at Flam for the ferries. It was quite a pretty little town. And then we drove to the village of Gudvangen where we were to start kayaking from.

Cliffs of Naeroyfjord

We had signed up for a 24 kms kayaking trip in the fjord, with Nordic Ventures Adventure Sports in Gudvangen. Kayaking there is supposed to be an exhilarating experience, given it is one of the narrowest fjords in the world, with steep cliffs rising more than a thousand metres on both of its sides. We got ready, got our instructions and then were off in the fjord. It was quite a tiring experience I must say, but really worth it. We saw the mountains up close, those giant masses. And multiple waterfalls falling from above. We saw mountain goats in the villages. We saw some farmer villages along the fjord, some of which become uninhabited during the winter months. We even stopped at one spot where the guide made lunch for us to eat. It was a simple lunch, but tasted heavenly given all the exercise we had got.

View from the kayak

It was a very windy day that day and one group in our kayaking party got lost! So the guide left us by the shoreline, and went back to get them. Thankfully we found them and then continued on our trail. At one point it did feel like it would be tough to finish the kayak tour 😂. But we made it! We ended the tour in the village of Undredal, another small little charming town along the fjord. And then a shuttle picked us up and dropped us back at Gudvangen. It had been such an extraordinary day, with such awe-inspiring views during the day. It was quite an experience to be in the fjords and see what it looks like up close. It was also a sign of what was to come in the next few days.

And then though tired, I had to drive for 4 more hours to get to Bergen. The drive there was through striking scenery again, with lakes and wooden cabins and greenery. And as we got close to Bergen, there were just rows and rows of hills covered with beautiful houses, all next to the sea. We had a very enjoyable drive to get to Bergen, and I don't think I can describe Norway’s beauty that easily. It just has to be lived.

It had also started pouring by then. So it took us a while to find our airbnb in Bergen. But this place also turned out to be a stunner, and was very welcome after such a long tiring day. It was a nice luxury home in a residential area of outside of the city centre. And a good base for the next three days.


Day 8: Explored Bergen, climbed up Mt Floyen

Walking in Bergen

The next day, we spent the whole day exploring the town of Bergen. And I fell in love with the city. I would love to spend a month living here. It's just so charming, so stunning, so relaxed, and so seeped in nature, it's absolutely lovely. We first walked from our airbnb to the city centre. It was through some elegant looking streets, colourful residential areas, well manicured parks, over bridges and along the water. We ambled through the Nygardsparken park which was stunning to walk through. And we also walked by many murals on the streets, some of which looked like Banksy’s.

Lille Lungegardsvann lake

We stopped at the Lille Lungegårdsvann lake and its central fountain which had a nice backdrop of the Bergen mountains. And then we walked through some gorgeous gardens with a colourful flower canopy. The whole area felt surreal, and it being a sunny day helped bring out its beauty even more. I can't even imagine living in a city which is so grand and magnificent. 

Bryggen Wharf

Then we walked through the shopping area, to Torget Square, the location of the famous Bergen fish market, the Fisketorget. We walked up to Bryggen street, past the iconic Bryggen Wharf with its colourful old Norwegian houses, all painted in bright colours and then around the waterfront. Here, there were some cruises parked for the day, and all the cruise tourists were exploring the city centre. This whole area was extremely active and lively that summer day.

Walk up Mt Floyen

Bergen is known for its seven surrounding hills, some of which are hikeable. So we decided to go up one of those, Mt. Floyen. This hike was quite popular and started from the Torget Square itself. It was quite a short hike, about 3 kms long with a 400 metres ascent. We initially walked past some gorgeous houses overlooking the town. And then the path became narrow through the forests. And we kept getting increasingly better views of the city down below.

Lake Skomakerdiket

The top was crowded as there was also a Floibanen funicular which goes up to the top. And there was so much activity going on there. On the top, there were many activities going on. Including at the Skomakerdiket lake where people were doing watersports. People were even canoeing there. We took a walk all around it. It was quite a tranquil little lake, located up a mountain. 

Bergen islands from Mt Floyen

Then we went to the Floyen viewpoint, from where you can get a 180 degrees view of the town below. We just sat there for a while, enjoying the views of the city. We could see all the seven hills surrounding Bergen, the colourful houses below and all the way till the surrounding islands far off. It was just so breathtakingly beautiful, we didn't want to leave this place. But after a while, we had to.

Flowers canopy

When we walked down, we ate freshly caught cod at the Bergen fish market, the Fisketorget. The fish was tasty but it was so bland, that even I had to ask for some sauces to put on it! The fish was very fresh though. And the atmosphere all around was so lively. With all the tourists coming through the ferries, the street performers playing local music, and everyone enjoying a nice weather day - it was just so joyous and lively. We hung out there for a while, and then walked all the way back to our airbnb, enjoying the city views as much on the walk back as on the walk in.


Day 9: Drive around Hardanger fjords, with stops at Haga village, Steinsdalfossen waterfall, Norheimsund beach

Haga village

The next day, we left Bergen and explored the Hardangerfjord areas nearby, which is the longest fjord in the world. It's called the ‘Queen of the Fjords,’ and is one of Norway’s most scenic drives, dotted with waterfalls.We drove along the scenic route, mostly driving along the fjords.First we stopped at the Haga village on the way. It was a sweet little village, and we just walked around, having chai next to the waterfront.

View from Steinsdalfossen
 waterfall

Next we drove to the Steinsdalfossen waterfall, which allows one to walk behind the waterfall. It was located in quite a picturesque valley with a river nearby. We walked up the waterfall but also spent some time in the valley, going down to the river and putting our feet in the water.

Norheimsund beach

And the last stop of the day was at Norheimsund beach in the town of Norheimsund. It was just so serene, and so dazzlingly beautiful. To be in such surreal surroundings, next to a lake, with mountains and snow and houses all around. We swam in the lake for a bit, but mostly just took in the scene and the fresh air. And were just there..

Serenity at Norheimsund

Today was one of the most beautiful days of our trip, but the pictures and words can only explain as much of the joy of being at such places. I just loved being there and will definitely be back 




Map




Stavanger and back to Netherlands (4)

Scandinavian driving trip (2): Netherlands to Sweden

Itinerary (1)

Mons Klint cliffs

We took almost 5 days to drive from the Netherlands to Sweden, entering Norway on the sixth day, where we spent the rest of our holiday. We stopped on the way in Germany, Denmark and Sweden, exploring some places longer and some just while driving through. The highlight for me over this long drive were the hidden gems, the Mons Klint cliffs near Copenhagen.


Day 1: Drive from Amsterdam to Asendorf, near Hamburg (Germany) (4.5h) with stops in Groningen, Bremen and Luneburg Heath

The first two days of our trip were mostly driving days. On the first day, we left early from Amsterdam and drove through the Netherlands and Germany. And we stopped on the way every few hours to explore some interesting places plus to enjoy the simple joy of a European road trip.

Groningen waterfront

Our first stop of the day was Groningen, a town I had heard of as two of my colleagues lived there but had never got a chance to visit. We took a break there, parking by the canal and spending some time walking around. It was a cute little place, generally known as a student town but not that crowded at that time, as it was the summer holidays and all the students were away. The canal front was pretty, with rows of huge boats parked there. We walked along the canal, and reached a nearby park where we had a chai break (this would be a routine over the trip). It was a calm peaceful place with lots of greenery around, and ducks swimming peacefully in the ponds. It was fun to sit there in the sun while loads of people around were enjoying their summer picnics.

Bremen

Our next stop was the German town of Bremen. We walked around the city centre, the Marktplatz, with the city hall, church and shops, all built in the typical German architecture. We walked into a few shops too. Then we walked towards the old town, called Schnoor. It had cobbled streets and pretty buildings all around, including the St. Peter’s Cathedral (Bremer Dom). It felt so cosy walking there. And then we walked around the Weser river for a bit before setting off again on our journey. Overall, Bremen seemed like a nice, cute town for a brief stop.

Schnoor, Bremen

Our Tesla stop that day wasn't as scenic though. It was next to a huge mall where we bought some stuff for the journey. The rest of the drive was through miles and miles of fields. Then we drove through Luneburg Heath, a scenic nature area, known for its purple blooms in autumn. The villages in the Heath looked charming, full of wooden houses and loads of places to stay. Throughout the nature reserve, there were green woods, and wildflowers, it was so refreshing to drive through it. There were also some purple heather fields in the area, though they were not fully in bloom yet.

We drove through a gorgeous sunset and reached our hotel, Hotel Zur Heidschnucke, near the village of Asendorf. It was an old hotel with spa amenities, surrounded by the green woodlands of Luneburg Heath. We wanted to go for walks around, but as we reached quite late, we couldn't. But we could already still feel the beauty around, that it would be a place worth spending some time at.


Day 2: Drive from Asendorf to Copenhagen (Denmark) (6.5h) with stops in Hamburg and Mons Klint

In the morning, we explored the hotel trails and green paths, and they were just such a pleasure to walk around. Then we were on our way. Today was another driving day, with two stops on the way. The drive was mostly through wheat fields and wild yellow flowers all along the way.

Hamburg

We first stopped at a sarson ka khet on the way and took some photos. Our next stop was Hamburg, one of the larger German towns. We first visited the tower of St. Nikolai, which is the only remnant remaining of the church after the war. Then we walked around the city centre, with its port, bridges, waterways and red buildings. The city centre was quite lively to walk through too.

St Nikolai tower

Hamburg waterways

To get from Germany to Denmark, we had to take a 45 minutes ferry from Puttgarden to Rodbyhavn, which takes you from Germany to one of the Danish islands. And then we drove from island to island, through green grasslands, water ways and very idyllic surroundings. Our next stop was Mons Klint, white seaside cliffs on the island of Mon. The drive till there was picturesque. We crossed over many small islands, linked with small and large bridges over the sea. There were hills everywhere, some filled with wild flowers and poppies, some had golden yellow wheat fields. We drove by scenic golf courses and small charming villages. With boats lining the marinas, and simple churches marking the villages. And the sea was everywhere. We drove up and down as this area was hilly, which added to the beauty of the landscape. I loved this drive.

The hike down

It was raining when we reached Mons Klint, but we got out anyway. And thankfully, after some time, the rain stopped. There was a reception centre at the entrance, with a small museum. There were a few trails there, and we decided to walk down the wooden stairs to reach the sea. It was raining a bit as we walked down, but then we came across a magical scene. And the sky also magically cleared at that moment. There were white cliffs of chalk against the deep blue of the sea, the dark gray clouds in the sky, and the white waves on the sea. It was such a mix of colours and landscapes, and as the rain had just stopped, the view felt surreal and refreshing. We were there for a while, taking a few pics and having a chai break, just enjoying being at such a breathtaking spot.

Mons Klint cliffs

Then we drove into Copenhagen, which felt boring given what we had just seen. We were staying at an airbnb, slightly outside of town in a residential area. We reached the Airbnb late and settled into it. It was quite comfortable and well located. There was an EV charging station nearby, as well as a park with a small pond and a few walking trails, though it rarely had any people there. 



Day 3: Explored Copenhagen

Copenhagen City Hall

On our first day in Copenhagen, it was raining. So we left our Airbnb much later in the day and mostly walked around all afternoon exploring the town. We used an app and followed its suggested route to check out all the main tourist spots. Overall, the city felt quite grand and also simple somehow. We enjoyed walking through the city, though the intermittent rain made the experience slightly challenging. Thankfully, the rain did stop at times, giving us space to move around a bit.

Olsen's world clock

We started at the main train station and walked around the Tivoli gardens. Then we walked to the City Hall (called the Radhus) which was quite grand from the inside. It had some captivating paintings, especially on the ceilings and the walls. (In fact, a year later when I visited the City Hall again for a friend’s wedding, I found the place to be a great setting for the wedding). As it started raining again, we spent a lot longer than planned at the city hall and had our chai break there. We also saw Jens Olsen’s World Clock in the city hall, which apparently can tell the time anywhere in the world at any time. Though by the time it was created, digital watches had taken over, so it wasn't as useful as earlier planned. 

Copenhagen from the top

Christiansborg Palace

Our next stop was the Christiansborg Palace which also functions as the Danish Parliament. We went up the palace tower (it’s free) and enjoyed the view of the city all around. It looked fascinating, with its new buildings and the port on the one side, and all the statues and stone buildings from old times on the other.

Nyhavn

From there we walked to Nyhavn, which was the prettiest part of town. It has lovely multi-coloured buildings lining the harbour. And all of them are now restaurants, with tourists milling around whenever you go. The rain added quite a contrast to the coloured buildings at that time.

Kongens Square

Our next stop was the grand square, Kongens Nytorv. It was a charming spot, with the green square full of bright and colourful summer flowers. We took a break there with chai. We next walked on the main market street, Stroget, which had got crowded by then as it had stopped raining. The area was lined with shops, and we checked a few of the things being sold there. And suddenly we also heard Hindi being spoken as there were so many tourists around.

Little Mermaid

Our next stop was the independent nation of Christiania. It was as expected, a very different kind of a place. With a lot of graffiti and people wandering around looking lost. It was a bit of a shock for sure. We then drove around the sea to see the Little Mermaid. It looked smaller than what we expected. We spent some time walking around the parkland nearby. There was a cruise ship parked there plus some gorgeous churches and fountains.

And then we drove through the city. There were some really nice areas, with big wide roads. simple but colourful huge houses, many water bodies and so many churches. The drive through Oster Sogade was beautiful, all along the lake. Overall the city felt slower than Amsterdam even. Lots of people were cycling in the centre. People drove within speed limits even on the highway. And didn't honk at red lights. It did feel like a great city to live in, simple and quiet. I visited the place again in winter, and it didn't feel so great then. Though the next day when the weather got sunnier, it felt better as everyone was out and swimming in the cold waters.


Day 4: Visited Kronborg castle and the Danish Riviera

Kronborg castle

The next day, we explored the Danish Riviera, the east coast of the Zealand island where the Danish have their holiday homes and spend their summers along the sea. We first drove to the Kronborg Castle and started the day from there. The castle was the highpoint of Helsingor town. It is quite striking, sitting atop an elevated plateau, overlooking the sea and Sweden beyond. It's also known as the castle where Hamlet's story is set in.

The grounds and moat around the castle are huge, with many colourful old barracks all around. The castle was owned by the Danish King and he used to spend some time there regularly. Whenever he was visiting, his whole court moved with him to Kronborg. It would then be full of activities and guests. And then he would leave, when the castle would become empty.

Sweden across the seas

We walked around the castle and sat on the stones by the sea. We could see Helsingborg in Sweden from there (which we would visit the next day). And regular ferries run from there, across to Sweden. I am generally not for visiting these castles as they all look the same to me after a point. But we did go in and I was pleasantly surprised. It was quite interesting and pretty to explore.

Inside the castle

We went up its towers, checked out the kitchens, the grand hall and ball room, the paintings and tapestries on the walls, and the underground barracks where soldiers used to live. It was all very informative to walk through. That day, they also had a Hamlet themed event being held in the castle for children. So there were various actors roleplaying different characters from the play, sitting in different rooms, giving clues to little children, which added to the fun of the day.

View from the top

From the tower, the view of the town around was lovely. It was a huge town with most houses having orange roofs. And lots of greenery. After exploring the castle, we had our chai break by the green gardens overlooking the castle.

Humlebaek village

Then we drove back till Copenhagen, all along the coast. There were wildflowers everywhere along the road and some very picturesque views. The coast was lined one by one with many big and small villages, with huge holiday homes all along the water. We stopped in two towns, Espergaerde and the beach at Humlebaek. We swam for a bit though the water was still cool. There were still loads of children doing watersports along the water, not finding it cool at all. And we had another chai break there, enjoying the serenity of the view around.

Charlottenlund

Our next stop was the Charlottenlund Fort. It was a green area and fun to walk through. We walked along the fort, the sea, the beach and the old bunkers. Just enjoying the calm views. The weather also got worse soon, so we called it a day. Overall the day was fun, seeing how the Danish spend their summers. It was calm and refreshing, though I must say, nothing extraordinary.


Day 5: Drive from Copenhagen to Gothenburg (Sweden) (3.5h) with stops in Malmo and Helsingborg

Today was another long day of driving from Denmark to Gothenburg in Sweden with some scenic stops on the way. We started out from Copenhagen, and first took the Oresund bridge crossing over to Sweden. It was a long bridge (about 16 kms) renowned as an engineering feat, with a hefty toll. Then we mostly drove along the Swedish coast, through miles and miles of wheat fields.

Ribban beach

Our first stop was the Ribersborgsstranden (also called Ribban) beach in Malmo. It was a sunny day and the water was quite warm. So the beach was full of people. The water was clean and almost green. We sat there for a while for a chai break, swimming in the water and sleeping in the sun on the grass next to the beach.

Helsingborg from the park

We continued our drive along the coast, through empty lands, with only fields till wherever the eyes could see. The road quality was fine but not as great as the Netherlands (I think I have been spoiled for life given the almost perfect highways of the Netherlands). Also I noticed, most of the drivers on the highways were following the speed limit, unlike in the Netherlands. 

Walking down to Helsingborg

Our second stop on the way was the Slottshagen Park in the town of Helsingborg, a park on elevated land with a view across town, and a castle and tower nearby. We had our lunch break there, enjoying the greenery and flowers in the garden. The park was up above on the cliff, so we admired the expanse of the small town below. We walked down the grand stairs from the park to the city centre along the waterfront. It was quite an active place, with grand buildings and an active city centre. The drive after was so boring, that we only stopped at a Tesla supercharger on the way. I think this boring part of the drive made me more tired than usual. 

And then we reached Gothenburg. We were staying at the Waterfront Cabins which sounded a lot more picturesque than they were. They were modern studio apartments near the waterfront. But they were quite tough to get to as a lot of the roads in town were closed. Also the first views of the place weren't great, though it got better as we checked in and walked around the complex. But as it was only a night halt, we didn't bother much. We drove into town for a bit and it seemed pleasant, though most of it was under construction somehow. Also I was too tired that day to enjoy it too much. (to be continued)


Map



Bergen and around in Norway (3)
Stavanger and back to Netherlands (4)